Dear Paula

Dear Paula,

I used Retin-A for about seven weeks to treat acne. I have very fair, sensitive skin and even though I only applied it three times per week, I experienced very red, peeling skin. I stopped using it about ten weeks ago, but my skin remains very sensitive. Moreover, I cannot use any makeup or moisturizer without having a reaction now. I get many red bumps and tiny whiteheads with any foundation (I’ve tried many), sunscreen, or moisturizer. I think it must be because of the Retin-A, but I don't know how to get my skin back to normal.

My skin gets better after a few days of using absolutely no products, but I want to be able to wear an SPF daily and makeup on occasion. Any advice you could offer would be appreciated.

Erikka, via email

Dear Erikka,

This is a tricky one. I suspect what happened is that you may have over-used the Retin-A (applying more than is needed each time) and that coupled with your fair, sensitive skin resulted in intense irritation. Some people cannot tolerate prescription retinoids and it's also possible the strength (percentage of tretinoin) you were using was too potent for your skin. And many people who use Retin-A approach it thinking if a little is good, more must be better - but that can definitely backfire!

When I used Retin-A as a teen to deal with acne, I suffered through more than I should have in terms of redness and peeling, flaking skin. Once I stopped, it took several months for my skin to go back to normal. 10 weeks may not be long enough for your skin to fully recover, especially because tretinoin (the active ingredient in Retin-A) is a potent cell-communicating ingredient and skin can have a long memory for it (one more reason tretinoin is classified as a drug rather than a cosmetic).

Have you tried using a gentle, well formulated BHA (beta hydroxy acid) product? If not, this may help reduce the redness and sensitivity while also reducing the whiteheads. Paula's Choice CLEAR Targeted Acne Relief Exfoliating Toner, Regular Strength is a great option. You would apply this after cleansing morning and/or evening. I'd also suggest treating your skin to my RESIST Advanced Replenishing Toner, as this is exceptionally soothing and can restore barrier-repair ingredients your skin likely needs.