Probiotics are microorganisms that occur naturally within and on the body, greatly impacting skin’s health and overall appearance. While they are well known in the food and supplement world, using probiotics for skin (meaning applied topically) is an emerging and fascinating frontier.
It’s not as easy as buying just any “probiotic cream” on the market. In order to truly reap the benefits of probiotics in skin care, key formulary considerations must be met. We’ll walk you through the essentials of understanding probiotics so you can use them to change your skin for the better.
Why Probiotics Are Important
Probiotics encompass an ever-changing array of microorganisms living within and on the surface of our bodies (1). Each person has their own distinctive, ever-changing combination of these organisms, known as the microbiome. It was only recently that researchers truly started understanding the impact probiotics have for skin, acne, and other conditions.
To give you an idea of how far the research has come in a short period of time, less than 10 years ago, scientists thought people had about 200 different types of microbes living in and on our bodies; today, we know there are trillions of critters sharing space with us (2). Don’t let that creep you out—they play a vital role in skin’s ability to protect itself; we literally couldn’t exist without them!
Sun damage, airborne pollutants, diet, and irritating skin care products are just a few examples of what can throw the skin’s microbiome out of balance, leading to lingering issues like acne, dryness or red, sensitive skin (3). The goal of probiotic skin care is to help restore the delicate balance that allows the good bacteria to flourish, so skin can keep itself in peak shape.
How Probiotics Benefit Skin
Skin’s surface is a multifaceted environment, almost like a city of living things populating and working in every part of it, and probiotics play a crucial role in keeping it in balance.
Stabilising the microbiome helps:
- Strengthen skin’s surface against environmental invaders. (4)
- Enhance skin’s ability to become—and stay—properly hydrated. (5)
- Diminish factors that trigger sensitised, reddened skin. (5)
- Visibly improve signs of dryness, including a tight, uncomfortable feeling. (5)
- Restore a healthy pH balance to skin’s surface. (6)
It’s important to recognise that probiotics alone aren’t the answer. They work best when combined with ingredients known as prebiotics. Prebiotics naturally fuel the growth of probiotics and help them thrive so they can effectively do their job (5). The best probiotic moisturiser (or any other probiotic skin care, for that matter), should contain both prebiotics and probiotics for optimal results.
There’s another essential part to the equation: As probiotics break down on skin’s surface, they create other skin-beneficial substances known as postbiotics (7). Postbiotics include hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamins--all of which help diminish signs of ageing, boost hydration, and improve skin’s healthy, vibrant tone. It’s the synergy between these “biotics” that makes all the difference when it comes to probiotic skin care.
Which Probiotics Are Good for Skin?
Research has looked at numerous probiotics for skin, acne, and other conditions, but it’s impossible to single out one as the best considering everyone has a unique microbiome. Instead, seek out a formula that contains a mix of “biotic” ingredients (pre-, pro-, and post-) for a well-rounded approach to stabilising and maintaining skin’s healthy microbiome. Note that very few probiotic skin care products contain living microorganisms. Adding these would not make sense because the product’s preservative system (which is necessary to protect your skin and the formula) would render them ineffective. A safe workaround is using probiotic lysates or ferments, non-living ingredients derived from probiotics that deliver many of the same benefits as the live versions.
- Proven probiotic skin care ingredients include the species Lactobacillus, Bifidabacterium, Vitreoscilla, and various ferments (5).
- For sources of prebiotics, look for ingredients such as xylitol, rhamnose, glucomannan, and oligosaccharides (5).
- For postbiotic compatible ingredients, the hyaluronic acid, peptides, and ceramides we mention above make a great complement for what probiotics can do for skin (7, 8).
- Lysate ingredients are also beneficial to probiotic skin care. As derivatives of probiotics, lysates work in tandem to help reinforce skin’s microbiome and diminish skin issues (9).
It’s important to point out that probiotic lysates and ferments in skin care demand careful formulation due to their inherent instability (they’re very fragile and deteriorate easily). This means no jar packaging (light and air cause them to break down faster) and buying products from brands that have a science-backed understanding of how these ingredients work. You should also look for probiotic lysates and ferments in a fragrance-free formula as this will boost their soothing benefits.
The bottom line: Products that utilise the correct formulary techniques are essential to getting the most out of your probiotic skin care. For best results, look for a combination of “biotic” ingredients to take advantage of what their special synergy can do for all skin types.
References for this information:
1. Experimental Dermatology, September 2019, ePublication
2. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, September 2012, pages 933-939
3. World Allergy Organization Journal, August 2017, ePublication
4. Nature Reviews Microbiology, June 2015, pages 85–89
5. Fermentation, May 2019, pages 1-17
6. Microbiome, June 2019, ePublication
7. International Journal of Molecular Science, September 2019, ePublication
8. Trends in Food Science & Technology, May 2018, pages 105-114
9. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, December 2016, pages 2,038-2,047