In this article:
Myth #1: Hyaluronic acid makes skin drier
Myth #2: You should only apply hyaluronic acid on damp skin
Myth #3: Hyaluronic acid works best on its own
Myth #4: The higher concentration of hyaluronic acid, the better
Myth #5: Hyaluronic acid can’t be used with other acids, like AHA or BHA
Hyaluronic acid products
Hyaluronic acid’s world takeover isn’t even close to wrapping up anytime soon. The hydrating skin care ingredient’s popularity crosses industries and social media platforms, where information swirling around it is often well-meaning but misleading.
It seems as if now hyaluronic acid is in every skin care product and format known to mankind (serums, masks, cleansers and toners, oh my!) where marketing claims seemingly contradict one another on everything from the ingredient’s effectiveness and benefits to how and when to apply hyaluronic acid.
If you’re confused, we don’t blame you! Let us clear up five of the most prevalent myths about hyaluronic acid with accurate, science-backed information below so you can use the impressive hydrator without any worry.
Myth #1: Hyaluronic acid makes skin drier
The hyaluronic acid myth gaining the most traction at the moment is the idea that hyaluronic acid makes skin dry.
Let’s lay down the hyaluronic acid basics to tackle this fear-mongering idea. Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance that possesses humectant properties, meaning it attracts and helps hold onto moisture (1).
Now, let’s get into the myth. The worry is that since hyaluronic acid helps moisture migrate from more moisture rich areas to drier areas, when used in dry, arid environments it’ll actually pull moisture from within skin and supply it to the environment. This can be true; however, this assumes that hyaluronic acid products are only being used on dry skin (without any other water-trapping and replenishing ingredients) in extremely arid climates.
If using hyaluronic acid as part of a well-rounded skin care routine full of humectants, emollients and antioxidants, you don’t have to worry about hyaluronic acid drawing moisture from the skin. If you have dry skin and are in an arid environment, seal in your humectants (like hyaluronic acid) with emollients and occlusive ingredients, which create a barrier over skin to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) (2).
Myth #2: You should only apply hyaluronic acid on damp skin
There is no shortage of tips on how to best apply hyaluronic acid. A simple scroll on any video platform will provide these two conflicting recommendations: 1) Applying hyaluronic acid on damp skin is best and 2) Applying hyaluronic acid on dry skin is the way to go.
So, what’s the truth? Well, that depends on the type of hyaluronic acid product you’re using. As we touched on above, hyaluronic acid, in dry climates, can possibly make skin drier. The theory behind applying hyaluronic acid to damp skin is that the added moisture will help “course correct” the ingredient. This means it discourages the humectant from drawing moisture out of the skin and into the environment and instead allows hyaluronic acid to draw the moisture that the dampened skin provides into deeper layers of the skin, providing ultimate hydration.
Except it doesn’t work that way. Hyaluronic acid is hygroscopic (water-loving); it can hold 1,000 times its weight in water so any that you add to skin’s surface will be taken up by the hyaluronic acid like a magnet, helping to hydrate skin’s uppermost layers. The water does not aid the transport of hyaluronic acid deeper into the skin—this is where lower molecular weights of hyaluronic acid shine.
If your hyaluronic acid product is formulated with both low molecular weight and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, it can work to hydrate both the surface and slightly deeper layers of skin at the same time. Sealing in your hyaluronic acid product with an occlusive moisturiser that traps moisture also prevents excess water loss.
Bottom line: experiment with what application techniques work best for you and your skin care. There’s no hard-and-fast rule!
Myth #3: Hyaluronic acid works best on its own
Just because pure 100% hyaluronic acid serums are popular right now doesn’t mean the ingredient works best applied alone. As mentioned above, hyaluronic acid works best when it’s paired with ingredients that help address its shortcomings and help bolster its benefits, like hydration, barrier support and soothing.
Hyaluronic acid works like a moisture magnet, but, because it’s solely a humectant, its magnetism falls a bit short when it comes to TEWL. Hyaluronic acid is also an antioxidant that can boost skin’s barrier defences, but its anti-ageing and soothing properties become amplified when paired with other protective and calming ingredients. Getting the picture? Skin care works best when taking an ingredient cocktail approach!
Here are the best ingredients to pair with hyaluronic acid:
Myth #4: The higher concentration of hyaluronic acid, the better
More is not always better! The truth is that hyaluronic acid is a powerful ingredient and can work to hydrate skin in concentrations as low as 0.1%, though usual hyaluronic acid percentages in skin care products can reach about 2.0% (3).
According to the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel, in 2021 hyaluronic acid was most commonly used in skin care products in concentrations between 0.000002% and 0.83% (4). However, its derivatives are often used in larger concentrations. Hyaluronic acid’s most popular relative, sodium hyaluronate, is currently in use in cosmetics in concentrations between 0.00001% and 7.5%. Also worth mentioning is that sodium hyaluronate is more cost effective than pure hyaluronic acid and can be just as effective.
The truth of the matter? Concentration and benefits aren’t always correlated. A small amount of hyaluronic acid can do a bang-up job at hydrating. Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Corey L. Hartman adds, “Application technique and condition of the skin can be just as important.”
Myth #5: Hyaluronic acid can’t be used with other acids, like AHA or BHA
Our last hyaluronic acid myth is one of the most prevalent. The word “acid” can be a scary one, we know. However, unlike other popular skin care ingredients with the word in its name (we’re looking at you two, alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy acid), hyaluronic acid isn’t a chemical exfoliant.
Hyaluronic acid is referred to as such because it has a low pH, making it acidic. Hyaluronic acid is an incredibly gentle ingredient (one that occurs naturally in skin and is an integral part of skin’s natural moisturising factors). This means it’s beneficial to pair it, and its derivatives, with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acid (BHA). Using hyaluronic acid after applying a leave-on exfoliant can help boost the barrier and keep skin hydrated, minimising chances of irritation.
Hyaluronic acid products
Hyaluronic acid is an incredible ingredient that truly delivers, which is why it’s included in a plethora of skin care product formats. It isn’t unusual to see it in everything from serums to skin supplements.
When used in topical skin care products, it’s best to look for hyaluronic acid and its derivatives in leave-on formats, like toners, serums, eye creams, moisturisers and lip treatments. Humectants work wonderfully when allowed the time to rev up and pull moisture into skin.
Hyaluronic acid can also benefit skin when in supplement form. Studies show that ingesting hyaluronic acid supplements can help improve hydration and elasticity as well as improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles through temporary, hydration-based skin-plumping (5).
Learn more about skin care ingredients.
References for this information:
- Engineered Regeneration, 2020, pages 102-113
- International Journal of Cosmetic Science, February 2020, pages 46-52
- Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, September 2011, pages 990-1,000
- Cosmetic Ingredient Review, July 2023, Report
- Journal of Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine, October 2017, pages 816-823
