Tranexamic acid is an exciting topical ingredient to fade the look of several types of skin discolourations. Research has shown the effectiveness of this ingredient rivals that of gold standard hydroquinone and is even suitable for those with melasma. Tranexamic acid also helps skin retain its youthful appearance in other ways. Let’s explore what it is and how it works…
How does tranexamic acid work?
Tranexamic acid works to actively improve existing skin discolourations and also helps prevent the formation of new dark spots. In fact, nearly 96% of study participants who used tranexamic acid saw noticeable improvement after 12 weeks of daily use when coupled with a broad-spectrum sunscreen, which is essential to prevent discolouration (1).
Tranexamic acid seems to have a special ability to interact with an enzyme in skin known as plasmin and its precursor, plasminogen. Skin’s surface cells develop excess plasmin in response to radiation exposure (think ultraviolet light from the sun and tanning salons). The excess plasmin triggers other substances in skin’s surface that in turn stimulate excess melanin production in skin’s lower layers, which eventually shows on the surface (2). Tranexamic acid works so well because it is able to interrupt multiple pathways related to surface discolourations. (3)
Does tranexamic acid fade dark spots?
Tranexamic acid helps prevent the formation of dark spots while actively improving existing discolourations. Sometimes pigmentation is concentrated in a small area—think typical brown spots. Other times, it’s more of a diffused, mask-like discolouration appearing on the perimeter of the face and around the mouth (this type of discolouration commonly occurs during pregnancy) (4).
Tranexamic acid targets both dark spots and mask-like discolourations as it allows skin’s surface layers to regain their natural, even-toned colour. The trick is patience: It can take 8–12 weeks of daily use until you see significant results.
Is tranexamic acid good for blemish scars?
Tranexamic acid can help fade the look of post-breakout marks of any colour and seems to be particularly effective for deeper skin tones. It also helps visibly reduce redness (5).
Is tranexamic acid good for skin?
Tranexamic acid is a well-tolerated ingredient with researching backing its benefits, making it overall good for skin.
How to use tranexamic acid in your routine
Adding tranexamic acid to your skin care routine is refreshingly easy. All skin types, ages, and ethnicities struggling with discolourations can use it once or twice daily (we recommend twice daily for faster results).
The distinction on when in your skin care routine to apply this great ingredient depends on whether you’re using it as a targeted spot treatment or applying it all over your face.
If you have multiple discolourations, during the day, apply your tranexamic acid skin care product all over your face after cleansing, toning, and using a leave-on AHA or BHA exfoliant. Follow with a serum (if used) and/or any other treatment product, and finish with your sunscreen. For spot application, apply to discoloured areas in the morning and finish with sunscreen.
Follow the same pattern for nighttime use, applying all over the face and following with other nighttime treatments, and then moisturiser. For spot application, dab on and finish with your moisturiser. You don’t need to wait between steps but do take care to keep as much of the tranexamic acid product on dark spots as possible.
Is tranexamic acid a retinol?
Tranexamic acid is not the same thing as retinol. Tranexamic acid is a water-soluble synthetic ingredient derived from the amino acid lysine. It must be used with oil-soluble ingredients to have it be most bioavailable to skin. Its primary benefit for skin is improving surface discolourations that show up due to sun damage, but it can also help other types and causes of discolourations (6).
In order to be effective for visibly reducing skin discolourations, tranexamic acid skin care products should contain between 2-5% of this ingredient (7).
Note: Tranexamic acid is not highly pH-dependent; it’s effective in pH ranges from 3–8 and seems to do best for skin when formulated in a product whose pH is between 5–7 (8).
Can I use retinol and tranexamic acid together?
Yes, you can use retinol and tranexamic acid together. Because topical products targeting discolouration tend to do better with supporting ingredients, it’s best to look for tranexamic acid in skin care paired with other discolouration-improving ingredients, like retinol, bakuchiol, niacinamide, various forms of vitamin C, or brightening plant extracts such as licorice root (9). Combining ingredients also ensures better results because each has unique ways of targeting discolourations.
References for this information:
1. Dermatology and Therapy, September 2017, pages 417-424
2. BioMed Research International, November 2018, ePublication
3. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, April 2020, pages 897-903
4. Journal of Research in Medical Sciences, August 2014, pages 753-757
5. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, January 2022, pages 1-14
6. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, August 2019, pages E73-E74
7. International Journal of Women’s Dermatology, February 2019, pages 30-36
8. Microchemical Journal, September 2017, pages 333-342
9. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, May 2019, pages 454-459