What is Squalane Oil and How Does it Benefit Skin?

In the vast world of skin care ingredients, squalane oil ranks among the most interesting and effective for dry skin. Although often labeled an oil, squalane has several differences and unique benefits compared to many traditional plant and mineral oils (1) including that it:

• works like skin’s own oil to prevent moisture loss and restore suppleness
• helps neutralise damage caused by UV light
• helps protect against lipid peroxidation which can damage pores
• feels lightweight and non-greasy
• can be sustainably sourced from plants when used in skin care (vegan)
• is unlikely to irritate skin or trigger an allergic reaction

What is squalane oil?

Squalane oil is an emollient, a type of ingredient that works very much like skin’s own oil (sebum) to prevent moisture loss. Chemically, it’s a hydrocarbon, a group of ingredients made of only hydrogen and carbon. Common skin-friendly hydrocarbons for skin include petrolatum and mineral oil. Squalane is the primary one from the plant world, so it’s a good alternative if you want to avoid petrochemicals.

A unique aspect of squalane is that it’s a modified form of squalene, one of the key components in our sebum (1, 2). This fact makes squalane an ingredient skin instantly recognises and knows how to use, but there’s more to the story than simply being an emollient.

Some people wonder if squalane is a vegan ingredient; traditionally, the squalene from which it’s created was derived from shark liver oil. Today, the majority of skin care brands using squalane are choosing a plant-derived, sustainable source. It occurs naturally in olive, wheat bran, rice bran and amaranth oils (1, 3). Paula's Choice uses vegan sources of squalane from olives and sugarcane.

Squalane benefits for skin

Along with its moisturising ability, squalane benefits also include being an oil-soluble antioxidant. It works with other antioxidants in skin to neutralise damaging oxygen molecules generated when skin is exposed to UV light.

The antioxidant benefit of squalane also helps it protect skin’s oil from what’s known as lipid peroxidation, a process that damages skin’s surface and deeper in the pore lining where oil originates. This peroxidation is also believed to play a role in forming blemishes, as it can change the skin’s oil composition, so it becomes inflammatory (4, 7).

Squalane’s sebum-like ability helps lubricate skin, so it feels comfortable but, unlike too much sebum, its lightweight nature keeps it from feeling greasy. It’s recognised by other lipids present in skin such as ceramides and cholesterol, where it works to visibly repair skin’s vital barrier, a process that can help skin look younger and become less reactive (1).

What’s the difference between squalane and squalene?

The difference between these two ingredients is only about enhanced stability: in order to make squalane for skin care, squalene is hydrogenated. Hydrogenation is a process where hydrogen is added to a less stable fat (in this case, squalene) to make it more stable. This enhancement benefits the skin care product and your skin since unstable fats degrade faster when exposed to light and air (5).

Research has shown that skin’s natural levels of squalene remain consistent from childhood through our early 30s, after which point it decreases, often significantly, resulting in skin that looks and feels drier (6).

Also worth noting: squalane’s close relationship to our skin’s own squalene means it’s unlikely to irritate skin or trigger an allergic reaction.

When to use squalane oil

Squalane oil can be used as part of both your morning and nighttime skin care routines. During the day, its antioxidant properties help neutralise various environmental stressors. At night, it lubricates skin’s surface so you wake up to a softer, smoother feel.

How to use squalane oil

You can use squalane oil in pure form since it’s surprisingly non-greasy, readily absorbing into skin’s surface layers. Try adding a few drops of pure squalane to your regular moisturiser or eye cream during times your skin is experiencing increased dryness.

Squalane is also included in many skin care formulas where it works with other skin-loving ingredients to prevent water loss and restore a smooth, soft feeling. For best results, look for squalane in leave-on products such as facial moisturisers, body creams, sunscreens, serums and skin treatments.

How to layer squalane oil

Use your cleanser, toner and exfoliant first, then apply your skin care treatments and moisturisers, including squalane oil, in order of thinnest to thickest texture.

Can you use squalane oil as a moisturiser?

Yes, you can use squalane oil as a moisturiser. During the day, always make sure to follow with sunscreen.

What’s the best squalane oil for the face?

There isn’t a single best squalane oil for the face, and although using pure squalane is an option, it’s generally best to use products that blend squalane with numerous other helpful ingredients. That’s because caring for skin is never as simple as one ingredient no matter how good it is. Think “better together” and look for:

• Squalane and retinol, as this combination nourishes skin and the squalane helps keep the retinol stable in the presence of oxygen.
• Squalane and vitamin C, which work together to smooth, brighten, and enhance skin’s environmental defences by delivering both water- and oil-soluble antioxidants.
• Squalane and shea butter, which prevent moisture loss and help restore comfortable smoothness to chapped dry lips.

Learn more about moisturisers.

References for this information:
1. Molecules, January 2009, pages 540-554
2. Advanced in Food and Nutrition Research, Volume 65, 2012, pages 223-233
3. Journal of Cosmetic Science, January-February 2013, pages 59-66
4. Free Radical Research, April 2002, pages 471-477
5. ACS Open, July 2017, pages 3,989–3,996
6. Indian Journal of Dermatology, May-June 2016, pages 279-297
7. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, November 2006, pages 2,430-2,437