In this article:
What is BHA?
Is BHA the same as salicylic acid?
What does BHA do for your skin?
Does BHA dissolve blackheads?
Why not use a scrub?
Our BHA formulas
Is a BHA exfoliant right for you?
What to look for in a BHA exfoliant
How to apply a BHA exfoliant
How often should I use Paula's Choice BHA exfoliant?
Tips to get the best results for large pores from a BHA Exfoliant
Leave-on BHA exfoliants gently and quickly remove built-up layers of dead surface skin to reveal the softer, younger-looking complexion hiding beneath. But our Paula’s Choice exfoliant products go even farther, helping with blemishes, blackheads, and enlarged pores; they also benefit skin with hydrating and anti-ageing ingredients.
And, because Paula’s Choice Skincare has many BHA options to choose from, one is sure to be perfect for your skin type and skin concerns.
What is BHA?
BHA is short for beta hydroxy acid. But don’t let the word “acid” scare you. BHA is a completely non-abrasive chemical exfoliant that has soothing and calming properties—so this leave-on exfoliating ingredient is gentler on your skin than virtually any scrub or cleansing brush could be.
It offers skin many benefits including; tackling uneven skin tone, removing dead skin cells to reveal a healthy, radiant appearance and because it’s oil soluble, it also assists with decongesting clogged pores (1).
Is BHA the same as salicylic acid?
Yes! Salicylic acid is the name for the specific acid, while beta hydroxy acid (BHA) describes the type of acid it is. It’s similar to how lactic acid and glycolic acid are alpha hydroxy acids, or gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid.
In the case of salicylic acid, it is the only beta hydroxy acid, which is why the terms “salicylic acid” and “BHA” are used interchangeably.
What does BHA do for your skin?
BHA exfoliants work on the uppermost layers of skin’s surface, loosening the bonds between dead surface layers and uncovering the radiant skin beneath them. They help deliver a smoother, healthier-looking complexion, while decongesting clogged pores. As mentioned earlier, BHA also offers soothing properties, starting at concentrations of 0.05%, meaning it can effectively calm skin while simultaneously exfoliating (2).
Our SKIN PERFECTING 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant is a fan favourite exfoliating toner that works fast and in a gentle manner (thanks to its optimal pH range of 3.2–3.8 in a fragrance-free and alcohol-free base). The penetration-enhancing methylpropanediol helps the BHA work more effectively and doubles as a hydrating agent, while green tea imparts extra skin-soothing action. Last but not least, the opaque, air-restrictive packaging keeps the formula stable for greater efficacy.
Does BHA dissolve blackheads?
BHA also works inside the pore. So, while BHAs (like AHAs) have benefits for all skin types—hydrating, diminishing the look of lines and wrinkles, visibly improving skin’s firmness, texture, and tone—its multi-tasking, standout properties make it ideal for those with normal to oily, bumpy or congested skin that may be showing signs of ageing (3). BHA exfoliants are even suitable for skin prone to milia.
What does this mean with respect to blackheads? Since blackheads are caused by dead skin mixing with oil inside pores that oxidise at skin’s surface, helping shed skin and normalise oil flow within the pore makes blackheads less likely to form. So, while your blackheads aren’t exactly dissolved, you will notice a large reduction in their appearance– and fewer blackheads in the future.
Since BHA exfoliants help with so many skin concerns, they’re in nearly all our skin care collections, including our RESIST line for anti-ageing, our CLEAR line for blemishes, and our CALM line for anti-redness. BHA exfoliants can change the look and feel of your skin in ways you may have thought weren’t possible and their soothing and calming properties make them gentle enough even for skin prone to rosacea.
Why not use a scrub?
The word exfoliation often brings to mind abrasive face or body scrubs, but most scrubs are too harsh, and actually harmful to skin. They almost always contain rough-edged ingredients that create micro-tears in skin’s surface, leading to visible damage over time. BHA is not in any way like a harsh scrub, and that’s a good thing.
A gentle scrub (applied with a light touch), a soft washcloth or a very soft-bristled cleansing brush can be good options for a more thorough cleansing; but those techniques can’t unclog pores or reveal even-toned, bump-free, young-looking skin the way a BHA exfoliant can.
Our BHA formulas
The pH of any BHA exfoliant is crucial. Salicylic acid works best at a pH between 3 and 4, so any product not adhering to this tight pH range will be less effective, or possibly ineffective. All Paula’s Choice Skincare BHA exfoliants, however, are formulated in the ideal pH range so you’ll experience the best results.
Is a BHA exfoliant right for you?
Many people wonder if they should be using a BHA exfoliant, an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) exfoliant, or a combination of both. Although some people do use both, it’s fine to stick with one or the other.
If you're only concerned with issues that affect the surface of skin—and you aren't dealing with sensitivity, redness, or clogged pores— an AHA exfoliant may be the right choice. BHA is probably best if you’re concerned about:
- Clogged pores and bumps on your face or body: BHA is oil soluble, so it can reach in to clear excess oil and other substances that clog pores (4). The result is fewer bumps and, in a short period of time, a minimised appearance of pore size. It’s even suitable for skin prone to keratosis pilaris especially when paired with a gentle, water-soluble body wash (5).
- Sensitive skin: BHA’s natural soothing properties are ideal for those with sensitive, reddened skin, regardless of skin type.
You may also want to consider the combined benefits possible from weekly use of a rinse-off salicylic acid peel that also contains a blend of resurfacing alpha hydroxy acids. Occasional use of such exfoliants is a great way to target stubborn concerns and advanced signs of ageing.
What to look for in a BHA exfoliant
Now that you’ve determined if a BHA exfoliant is right for you, the next question is determining which BHA product is the best option for your concerns. It might sound challenging, but it’s fairly straightforward!
First and foremost, you must find a well-formulated product. BHAs work their exfoliating magic best when they’re formulated at the proper pH (optimally between 3.2–3.8, but anywhere between 3-4 is suitable). It’s also important that your BHA exfoliant is free from irritating or harsh ingredients, like denatured alcohol and fragrance, which work counter to BHA’s calming effects.
When looking for a BHA exfoliant, there are several textures to consider. A liquid exfoliating toner is a perfect all-skin-types option that fits seamlessly into your daily skin care routine. If your skin leans towards a drier texture, lotions might work best. There are also gels that might be more suitable if your skin is combination or oily.
You can also select from daily exfoliators (usually featuring between 1-2% concentrations of BHA), higher-strength options you can use daily or weekly that have 4% BHA or spot treatments for stubborn skin issues (think hard, white bumps) that have 9% concentration of salicylic acid.
How to apply a BHA exfoliant
Whichever exfoliant format you choose, it should be applied after cleansing and toning with a traditional, hydrating toner. The other products in your routine, like serums, boosters and moisturisers, go on after your exfoliant in order from thinnest to thickest texture. (Don’t forget to finish with sunscreen during the day.)
An occasional-use, high percentage rinse-off BHA peel can also be applied to cleansed skin and rinsed off after several minutes. Pat skin dry and follow with the rest of your routine. On the day you're using an at-home peel, skip out on using your daily exfoliator.
How often should I use Paula's Choice BHA exfoliant?
You can use Paula's Choice BHA every day— exfoliating once either in the morning or evening (pick whichever is most convenient for you). Many people with stubborn clogged pores have great results using a Paula’s Choice BHA exfoliant twice per day.
Note: Those new to using BHA should start by only applying every other day and note skin's response before moving on to more frequent application.
Tips to get the best results for large pores from a BHA exfoliant
- You don’t need to wait between steps for each product to absorb. The BHA will work even if you apply another product immediately before or after.
- It’s fine to apply an exfoliant to your undereye area, up to the edge of the orbital bone.
- Although daily exfoliation is optimal for many people, you might find that exfoliating every other day works best for you. Again, it takes some experimentation.
- Consider one of our more potent BHA exfoliants for special skin care needs. BHA 9 Treatment is excellent for spot application of imperfections, while RESIST Advanced Pore-Refining Treatment 4% BHA can dramatically improve signs of ageing and rough, bumpy skin.
Learn more about exfoliants.
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References for this information:
- International Journal of Research in Engineering, Science and Management, October 2020, pages 54-55
- Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, August 2015, pages 451–455
- Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, July 2021, pages 2-6
- Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, April 2007, pages 651–663
- Dermatology Research and Practice, February 2015, ePublication
