In this article:
Mandelic acid benefits
Does it work for all skin types?
Mandelic acid vs. lactic acid
Mandelic acid and azelaic acid together
Mandelic acid and retinol
How to incorporate mandelic acid into your skin care routine
What are the best mandelic acid products?
Mandelic acid is an exfoliating alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that may be derived from bitter almonds or synthetically created. This intriguing AHA has lived in the shadows of the more popular members of the AHA family, like lactic acid and glycolic acid, for decades. But now, it’s finally mandelic acid’s time to shine.
Think of mandelic acid as the soft-spoken member of the AHA family: it’s gentle, more subdued and often overlooked, but still maintains the same benefits that are associated with its family, like promoting an even tone, tackling sun damage, smoothing skin texture and helping decrease the look of fine lines and wrinkles (1).
Below, we’re walking through our guide to mandelic acid’s benefits for skin, how to use it and which ingredients you can use it with so you can tap into the power of this gentle exfoliating ingredient.
Mandelic acid benefits
Mandelic acid benefits skin primarily through exfoliation. Like other AHAs, it works to loosen the bonds between skin cells, allowing dead, dull cells to slough off and in the process, reveals radiant, healthy skin.
Mandelic acid differs from its family of chemical exfoliators in terms of molecule size: Imagine it as a basketball, lactic acid as a softball and glycolic acid as a baseball. Mandelic acid’s molecule size allows it to penetrate skin in a slower manner, making it gentler.
AHAs are water-soluble, meaning they can’t sink too far into skin. Think of mandelic acid as a transformer. Once it slips below skin’s surface, it morphs and becomes oil-soluble. This allows mandelic acid to accomplish gentle, multi-level benefits.
Mandelic acid doesn’t just exfoliate, it also....
- Helps smooth skin’s texture through increasing cell’s turnover rate (2). Removing dead cells from skin’s surface promotes a smooth look and feel.
- Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This visible reduction is also attributed to mandelic acid’s ability to press fast-forward on the cell turnover process.
- Supports skin’s architecture, promoting firmness and elasticity, according to a 2018 study that included applying mandelic acid to the under-eye area (3).
- Assists in reducing clogged pores and the occurrence of breakouts (4,5,6). Most research that covers this benefit of mandelic acid uses it in conjunction with other acids, like lactic, glycolic and salicylic. So, if you’re seeking this benefit, make sure to be on the lookout for a product with a mix of acids, or consider alternating an AHA and BHA (salicylic acid) exfoliant.
- Targets and reduces the look of dark spots and uneven tone (7, 8, 9). Mandelic acid accomplishes this through getting in the way of an enzyme that contributes to the creation of dark spots and post-inflammatory marks (10). Research even shows it’s particularly suited for assisting deeper skin tones (those with a 4-6 Fitzpatrick skin type) with dark spots, too (11).
- Fades signs of sun damage for a more even complexion.
Does it work for all skin types?
Mandelic acid is a great AHA option for all skin types but is a particularly wonderful option for sensitive skin due to its gentle nature.
It might also be your choice of chemical exfoliant if you have drier skin, as some studies have shown that in higher concentrations (40% in a rise-off peel), mandelic acid can promote sebum production (12). Just a quick assurance to the oily skin set: amounts of mandelic acid used in leave-on exfoliants aren’t known to trigger oil.
Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Debra Jaliman recommends “adding mandelic acid to your skin care regimen especially if you have sensitive skin and want to smooth and even your skin tone while also seeking to diminish the look of brown spots.”
Mandelic acid vs. lactic acid
Mandelic acid and lactic acid are both exfoliating AHAs, but they differ in their benefits. Before we jump into the best way to remember their respective strengths, let’s brief you in on lactic acid: Lactic acid is a popular exfoliating ingredient extracted from milk (although most skin care formulas use synthetically made lactic acid due to its stability and its vegan designation) with a smaller molecule size than mandelic acid.
It can be confusing to remember just exactly what AHA excels in which area, so try to remember the difference between mandelic acid and lactic acid this way: Mandelic acid is gentler and better suited for sensitive skin, particularly adept at tackling an uneven tone, whereas lactic acid is best for sun-damaged, dry skin in need of hydration and a skin barrier boost (13). This is due to lactic acid’s humectant (moisture-attracting) properties.
Mandelic acid and lactic acid complement one another and are often used within the same product, so the good news is that you probably don’t have to pick between the two ingredients.
Mandelic acid and azelaic acid together
Azelaic acid and mandelic acid share a gentle nature and a penchant for promoting an even tone, so combining them in a single routine is a no-brainer if you have sensitive skin that’s prone to dark spots or redness. This combination is even suitable for those prone to rosacea.
Mandelic acid for skin has a long history as a supporting ingredient, meaning it’s often paired with other acids, like azelaic acid, and bioactive ingredients in peels and products (14).
Combining these two acids is safe and easy. After cleansing and toning with a traditional hydrating toner, apply your choice of mandelic acid exfoliant followed with an azelaic acid serum or treatment. Follow up with SPF in the AM and a moisturiser in the PM.
Mandelic acid and retinol
Let us quickly slip on our myth-busting gloves and deliver a knowledge nugget: you can use mandelic acid and retinol in the same skin care routine.
Remember how we said mandelic acid has a long history of use in formulas with other bioactive skin care ingredients? Well, this wasn’t relegated just to other exfoliating acids.
In a 2019 study that focused on blemishes, mandelic acid was safely paired with retinol, benzoyl peroxide, retinyl palmitate and glycyrrhetic acid (5). Although mandelic acid's pairing with retinol often happens in clinical settings, you can use them together in the comfort of your own home.
Ease into the use of both your mandelic acid exfoliant and retinol treatment. Begin by switching off between the two, using them both 1-2 times a week on separate nights. With time, and after seeing how your skin responds, you can reach the point of using both in the same PM skin care routine. Not all skin will need this level of treatment, with this best suited for blemish-prone skin with signs of ageing. This duo can also visibly improve post-breakout marks of all colours.
How to incorporate mandelic acid into your skin care routine
Mandelic acid is no longer just a well-rounded, supporting ingredient and can now be found as the primary AHA in an increasing number of exfoliants, making it easier to incorporate it into your skin care routine.
After cleansing and toning with a traditional hydrating toner, apply your mandelic acid skin care exfoliant or exfoliating toner with your fingers or a cotton pad. Don’t rinse it off! Leaving exfoliants on skin gives them time to work their magic. Always follow with sunscreen during the day and moisturiser at night.
Mandelic acid exfoliants can be used one to two times a day. If you’re newer to exfoliants or have sensitive skin, begin using once or twice a week and see how your skin responds. Gradually work up to your preferred cadence!
If you’re an exfoliant pro looking to chip away at more stubborn skin concerns, you might find you want to alternate use of a mandelic acid exfoliant with other types of chemical exfoliating acids, like salicylic acid, or even layer them.
Keep in mind: exfoliation is an individualised balancing act that requires not tipping the scale so the potential for irritation outweighs the benefits.
What are the best mandelic acid products?
The best mandelic acid products are those formulated with a star-studded cast of supporting acids and skin care ingredients. It’s also important to note that the most effective mandelic acid products are packaged in airtight, opaque containers and formulated within the 3-4 pH range (where it’s most effective for skin).
The mandelic acid in your exfoliant can be plant-derived (remember, it’s a product of bitter almonds) or synthetically created. Both forms are equally effective, though the almond-derived type may prove problematic for those with nut allergies.
AHAs work particularly well when paired with one another, handing off what they can’t individually accomplish to their AHA “family” members. They also work wonderfully when included in the same formula as antioxidants, skin-soothers and hydrators.
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References for this information:
- Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, December 2020, ePublication
- International Journal of Cosmetic Science, December 2010, pages 247-258
- Facial Plastic Surgery, December 2018, pages 651-656
- International Journal of Research in Engineering, Science and Management, October 2020, pages 54-55
- Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, May 2019, pages 363-369
- Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, February 2020, pages 393-399
- Dermatological Reviews, February 2023, pages 53-57
- Dermatologic Surgery, March 2016, pages 384-391
- Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, September 2022, pages 3,905-3,909
- Dermatologic Surgery, January 2009, pages 59-65
- Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, Oct-Dec 2012, pages 247-253
- Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, June 2013, pages 140-145
- Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, April 2018, pages 138-144
- Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, September 2016, pages 269-282