In this article:
What is silicone?
Silicone myths and facts
Myth #1: Silicones don’t really do anything in skin care, they’re just filler ingredients
Myth #2: Silicones suffocate skin
Myth #3: Silicones clog pores
Myth #4: Silicones cause blemishes
Myth #5: Silicones keep skin from exfoliating
Myth #6: Silicones are toxic to skin
What is the science behind silicones in skin care?
The topic of silicone-based skin care is one that’s full of misinformation. This large group of versatile ingredients includes different types of silicones found in many face and body moisturisers.
Unfortunately, silicones have been unfairly demonised, causing many people to view them as a threat to their skin. Let’s set the record straight based on scientific research.
What is silicone?
Many people are surprised to find out silicones have a natural origin: they begin as the mineral silicon which then bonds strongly with oxygen to form silica (1). Chemists take what begins as a natural ingredient and create various synthetic silicones that are used in personal care products, including those for wounds and scars.
The function of silicone in skin care depends on the type of silicone. Some have a skin-smoothing, emollient effect; others form a water-resistant film or improve a product’s ability to spread. Some serve as carrier fluids to deliver an even layer of ingredients and then the silicone evaporates, leaving behind a weightless yet silky finish.
Silicone myths and facts
Following are some of the common myths about silicones we’re happy to debunk in order to put your mind at ease when shopping for skin care.
Myth #1: Silicones don’t really do anything in skin care, they’re just filler ingredients
Fact: All types of silicones play a role in a skin care product’s texture and finish, they’re not just used for pleasant aesthetics or as fillers. Silicones are proven to directly influence skin’s hydration and boost its ability to benefit from other ingredients (like antioxidants). Some silicones help keep skin matte or can blur the look of pores or even temporarily fill lines and wrinkles.
Myth #2: Silicones suffocate skin
Fact: The molecular structure of silicones makes them air- and water-permeable--they don’t suffocate skin, prevent key ingredients from working, or interfere with a person’s ability to sweat. And just to allay another concern, silicones don’t prevent water-soluble ingredients from penetrating past skin’s surface (5, 6).
Think of this permeability as akin to steeping a tea bag in water, which releases the flavour, colour, and antioxidant compounds tea contains. Silicone’s structure safely “steeps” many types of skin-friendly ingredients into skin’s uppermost layers (7).
Myth #3: Silicones clog pores
Fact: Silicone ingredients do not clog pores. We know this because the inert nature of the types of silicones and their permeable characteristics which make them incapable of clogging pores on their own.
What might happen if you’re not diligent about cleansing your face thoroughly is that remnants from certain silicones such as the smaller-sized siloxanes could potentially build up in the pore, possibly preventing sebum (oil) from flowing freely to skin’s surface.
In theory, this could set the stage for clogged pores, but many other beneficial skin care ingredients from emollients to oils to waxes present the same issue, not to mention the interplay between the numerous ingredients in several skin care products mixing with a person’s own oil and their tendency for clogged pores. What a puzzle, but it's one more reason daily facial cleansing is necessary, especially if you wear sunscreen and makeup.
Myth #4: Silicones cause blemishes
Fact: Studies on silicone use in patients with blemishes haven’t shown that this group of ingredients cause or worsen blemishes. If anything, dermatologic studies of patients with blemishes have shown that silicone’s permeable nature and non-irritating properties make them helpful for softening and smoothing the often-rough texture of blemish-affected skin. They’ve also been shown to help alleviate dry, flaky skin from using prescription retinoids (8,9).
Myth #5: Silicones keep skin from exfoliating
Fact: Because some silicones are more occlusive than others, some people are concerned that applying silicone-based skin care will somehow impede skin’s natural exfoliation process, but that’s not how silicones work.
Even the heavier-feeling silicones such as dimethicone still maintain a permeable barrier on skin (refer to the tea bag analogy above). Interestingly, research has shown that a pure silicone bandage doesn’t stop natural exfoliation whether skin is dry or hydrated (10).
The lighter-feeling, fluid siloxanes leave a sheer veil on skin’s surface as they evaporate, which also doesn’t get in the way of skin cells shedding.
Myth #6: Silicones are toxic to skin
Fact: Extensive safety and toxicology evaluations have proven that no type of silicone used in cosmetics is toxic when applied to skin. Several types of silicones, including those made from dimethicone and all of the common siloxanes have consistently shown to be non-toxic and non-irritating on all skin types (11, 12).
What is the science behind silicones in skin care?
The primary types of silicones used in skin care and hair care are categorised as volatile and non-volatile. Also known as cyclic silicones, volatile silicones aren’t irritating to skin; they’re “volatile” because they evaporate quickly from skin’s surface, leaving a powder-like smoothness. Examples of this type of silicone are the siloxanes, such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane which show up in many face serums (2).
The non-volatile silicones are also known as linear silicones and include the commonly used dimethicone skin protectant. This fascinating silicone is a type of polymer (large molecule) that’s available in a wide range of thicknesses, ranging from thin fluid to thick gel. Each type contributes to a product’s aesthetics and ability to benefit skin by preventing water loss, evenly deposit key ingredients, and leave a velvety, air- and water-permeable finish on skin.
Some people ask if dimethicone safe, and the answer is yes (3). In fact, the vast majority of dimethicone-derived ingredients found in skin care products have been reviewed and deemed safe as used. Dimethicone is considered one of the gentlest emollients available and is even used as an FDA-approved skin protectant on wounds and burns as well as for many dry skin conditions, where it’s often paired with glycerine (4).
Summing up, there’s no research-supported reason to avoid skin care or makeup products that contain silicones. They do not pose a risk to skin or play a proven role in making any skin issue worse. Instead, the scientific literature has consistently shown they are one of a group of ingredients that help products such as moisturisers be more effective while providing an impressive sensory experience.
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References for this information:
1. Current Topics in Microbiology and Immunology, Volume 210, 1996, pages 3-12
2. Environmental International, November 2015, pages 55-63
3. International Journal of Toxicology, May 2014 Supplement, pages 65S-115S
4. Scars, Burns, and Healing, August 2019, ePublication
5. Frontiers in Pharmacology, May 2016, ePublication
6. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, February 2014, pages 164-171
7. Therapeutic Delivery, July 2015, ePublication
8. Cutis, October 2008, pages 281-284
9. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, May 2014, pages 36-44
10. British Journal of Nursing, May-June 2014 Supplement, pages S34-S37
11. International Journal of Toxicology, December 2017, ePublication
12. Toxicology Letters, October 2017, Pages 2-22
13. Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, November 2012, Pages 305-314
14. Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, February 2016 Supplement, pages S67-S76
15. International Journal of Toxicology, December 2011 Supplement, pages 149S-227S