In this article:
The truth about using vitamin C and niacinamide together
Can you use niacinamide with vitamin C?
Benefits of niacinamide and vitamin C
How to layer niacinamide and vitamin C
Niacinamide and vitamin C: which one first?
How long should you wait between vitamin C and niacinamide?
Can I use niacinamide with vitamin C in the morning?
It’s time for some myth busting, this time about confusing claims surrounding two of our favourite skin care ingredients: niacinamide and vitamin C. Several blogs, and even some beauty magazine articles, state that while the two ingredients are great on their own, combining them creates a two-fold problem: One, it neutralises the effectiveness of both ingredients, and two, it might create a substance (nicotinic acid, also known as niacin) that reddens skin.
Sigh of relief: Research has shown that combining niacinamide and vitamin C does not lead to skin problems; in fact, the combination can lead to a wealth of skin benefits (1).
The truth about using vitamin C and niacinamide together
What’s propelling the idea that niacinamide and vitamin C can’t be combined is old research that was interpreted incorrectly. At Paula’s Choice Skincare, all our products and advice are research-based. We examine all research with a critical eye to see how it applies to the information we share and the ingredients we use in our skin care products. Here’s where we’re going to get science-y, but hang in there, your skin will love the results!
The studies showing incompatibility between niacinamide and vitamin C date back to the early 1960s (yes, that far). These studies were off from the start because they used non-stabilised forms of both ingredients, whereas both ingredients are typically stabilised when used in modern-day cosmetics formulas.
Niacinamide is a pretty “tough” ingredient; light and air don’t have the same effect on it as they do on other antioxidants like vitamin C. What’s important for niacinamide is that the product is formulated at a pH that’s close to neutral. Vitamin C (pure ascorbic acid), on the other hand, does best in a low pH (acidic) environment. However, nicotinic acid—the undesirable by-product of niacinamide and vitamin C—becomes an issue only when niacinamide and vitamin C are combined in a high-temperature environment for a long time. That temperature is higher than you’d find in most at-home scenarios, including leaving a box of skin care products sitting outside in the sun for a couple of days.
Also, it’s important to point out that this concern applies only to pure vitamin C, not to its many other forms (such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and ascorbyl glucoside).
To reiterate, combining pure vitamin C (ascorbic or l-ascorbic acid) with niacinamide is fine as the circumstances that produce nicotinic acid do not apply to everyday applications of these powerhouse ingredients.
Can you use niacinamide with vitamin C?
Research shows that you’re safe to mix both niacinamide and vitamin C, either together in the same product or combined from different products that you layer one over the other. This combination of skin-beneficial ingredients is unlikely to cause irritation, but likely to make skin look and act healthier since these ingredients offer distinct and synergistic benefits.
Benefits of niacinamide and vitamin C
The benefits from using niacinamide and vitamin C together are numerous. On its own, skin-restoring niacinamide's benefits include visibly improving the appearance of enlarged pores, fine lines, and dull skin. Vitamin C benefits skin because it's a potent antioxidant that helps defend skin from the visible impact of environmental stressors such as free radicals plus, it's a dullness-diminishing agent that can improve the visible signs of ageing.
Together, these ingredients form a powerhouse combo that addresses uneven skin tone, wrinkles, loss of firmness, and dullness. Whether you have dry, oily/combination or sensitive skin, you will see a complexion that progressively becomes more radiant, smoother, more even, and noticeably younger-looking.
How to layer niacinamide and vitamin C
Before you begin layering, you need to find the right vitamin C and niacinamide products to add to your skin care routine. These two vitamins appear in several skin care product types, including cleansers, treatments and moisturisers. However, to get the most out of them, a leave-on product, like a toner, treatment (serum or booster) or moisturiser, is the best vehicle for both vitamin C and niacinamide. The more time these two are allowed to stay on skin, the better!
As for texture, this is entirely up to your skin type and skin concerns. As a rule of thumb, lightweight and gel textures for niacinamide and vitamin C products and boosters work well for all skin types. However, when it comes to moisturisers, oily and combination skin might do better with lighter creams and gels, whereas drier skin types tend to need the extra cushioning and hydration a thicker cream provides.
Niacinamide and vitamin C: which one first?
The way in which you layer vitamin C and niacinamide depends upon the texture of the products you choose – not on how the ingredients will interact with each other. For example…
- Apply our thin, fluid 10% Niacinamide Booster
- Follow with our creamy C5 Super Boost vitamin C moisturiser
or
- Apply our feather-light 15% vitamin C C15 Super Booster first
- Follow with our hydrating 5% niacinamide serum
You should always apply skin care products in order of thinnest to thickest consistency, but other than that, feel free to experiment!
How long should you wait between vitamin C and niacinamide?
There are a lot of ideas circulating about how long to wait between applying different skin care products. The truth is, you don’t need to wait for a product to “dry down” before applying the next. This holds true for vitamin C and niacinamide.
Applying one after the other doesn’t impact permeability or effectiveness. As we’ve established, these two ingredients don’t cancel one another out! Besides, given that vitamin C is the primary antioxidant in skin, waiting between applications of these ingredients just doesn’t make sense.
If you experience flushing from niacinamide or vitamin C, you can wait before applying your next skin care product. Or better yet, consider different products with these ingredients!
Can I use niacinamide with vitamin C in the morning?
If you’re wondering when to use vitamin C and niacinamide, the truth is you can use them both in the morning and/or at night. This is entirely up to you and your application preferences.
Many choose to use both in the morning. Applying both before you face the day provides your broad-spectrum sunscreen with ample backup antioxidant protection from environmental aggressors. Generally, vitamin C is the better go-to for daytime use, although there’s nothing wrong with using niacinamide in the morning, too.
One more point: We know, from reams of research, how niacinamide benefits skin. But as mentioned above, vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is the most abundant antioxidant that occurs naturally in skin. Given this fact, if vitamin C and niacinamide weren’t compatible, topical use of niacinamide would either do nothing or result in skin problems—today’s studies are showing only benefits.
We invite you to try this combination for yourself. You might find you’ll become a true believer—no myths, just facts and results.
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References for this information:
- Molecules, February 2022, ePublication
- Skin Research and Technology, May 2006, pages 105-113
- Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2023, pages 763-775
- Antioxidants, August 2022, pages 1-18
