In this article:
What is ectoin?
How does ectoin work?
Ectoin’s benefits for skin
Who should (and shouldn’t) use ectoin?
How to use ectoin in your skin care routine
Using ectoin with other skin care ingredients
How does ectoin compare to other skin care ingredients?
Is ectoin safe?
How to find the best ectoin skin care products
At Paula’s Choice, one of the most exciting things we get to do is explore and analyse research and spread the word about truly beneficial, emerging ingredients on the skin care scene. One that’s been getting a lot of attention recently is ectoin (“ek-toe-een"), billed by some as “the new niacinamide.”
But is that an accurate description? Does ectoin have the power to “dethrone” niacinamide? Here we take a deep dive into ectoin – its benefits, who it’s good for and how to use it – to get to the bottom of the ingredient hype and help you decide if it’s something you should add to your routine.
What is ectoin?
Ectoin, sometimes spelled “ectoine”, is an amino acid (organic compounds that are the building blocks of proteins and peptides) derivative and extremolyte (1). Extremolytes help protect cells that exist in extreme conditions – we’re talking high salt-to-water ratios, paramount pressure and drastic temperatures. Knowing this, it makes sense that ectoin was originally found in bacteria that live and thrive in high-salt lake environments.
Scientists discovered that ectoin served to protect bacteria from damage caused by environmental stressors because of its ability to stabilise enzymes, proteins and nucleic acids. In short, ectoin proved itself to be an excellent defender against even the most extreme environmental conditions (2).
Is ectoin a natural ingredient?
As we touched upon, ectoin can be sourced from naturally occurring halophilic (salt-loving, essentially) bacteria. That said, researchers can also lab-synthesise ectoin in a way that compromises none of its abilities to benefit skin, but makes its benefits more predictable, stable to work with and sustainable than its naturally sourced version.
How does ectoin work?
Ectoin works by putting up a defence around skin, protecting them from environmental factors like UVA rays and pollutants (3). It also excels at preventing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) because of its ability to decrease stressors in the human stratum corneum – the outer layer of skin – when it is exposed to harsh, drying environments (4).
Ectoin’s benefits for skin
As you have probably guessed by now, ectoin has a host of benefits for skin. Among them:
- Softer, smoother-feeling skin thanks to its ability to prevent water loss (5)
- Diminished signs of ageing because of ectoin’s function as an antioxidant, which helps neutralise free-radical damage (6)
- Fewer visible signs of UVA radiation damage (like uneven tone) because of its ability to defend against pro-ageing harmful rays (7)
- Less sensitised and less stressed skin because of its soothing properties (8)
Is ectoin anti-ageing?
Yes. Ectoin helps fight off two of the major factors that lead to visible skin ageing – UVA damage, which can penetrate through windows and is a leading cause of wrinkles, and oxidative stress, whose cumulative exposure leads to wrinkles in addition to uneven tone, roughness and dark spots (9).
Who should (and shouldn’t) use ectoin?
Now that we know ectoin’s microbiome boosting, hydrating and anti-ageing skin benefits, you’re probably wondering if it’s compatible with your specific skin type and concerns. Thankfully, this is another area in which ectoin truly shines – everyone can benefit from it!
Because of its ability to reduce TEWL and normalise skin hydration, it’s especially valuable if you have a compromised barrier, dry or dehydrated skin. It's also a superhero for stressed skin. So, if your skin's under pressure or the elements are chipping away at your dermis, ectoin's for you!
If you’re wondering if ectoin’s moisturising properties mean you can’t use it if your skin is oily or blemish-prone, there’s more good news: no research so far shows that ectoin clogs pores or worsens oiliness. In fact, there are studies that suggest using topical ectoin can actually help skin maintain a more balanced microbiome, which is great for blemish-prone skin (10).
How to use ectoin in your skin care routine
Because of the wealth of information about how effective this ingredient can be in maintaining overall skin health, there are a growing number of skin products with ectoin. These products might come in the form of an ectoin cream, serum or even a booster or essence.
To incorporate ectoin into your existing routine, simply select the type of product you feel is best for you and follow your usual steps. In other words, if your ectoin product is a serum, booster or treatment, use it after cleansing, toning and exfoliating. This is where you’d use the milky-textured 7% Ectoin + Hyaluronic Acid Milky Hydrating Serum, our hydration, strengthening and repair focused booster that spotlights this multi-tasking extremolyte alongside hyaluronic acid and glycogen, a skin barrier-supporting humectant.
If you’re using an ectoin cream at night, apply it after the rest of your products, or if you choose a sunscreen with ectoin, make sure it’s the last step of your daytime routine.
Using ectoin with other skin care ingredients
Ectoin’s probably sounding pretty good to you right now as a skin care ingredient to consider and here’s another mark in its favour: it’s an ingredient that plays well with others. There’s been no evidence to date that ectoin reduces the efficacy of other skin care ingredients.
In fact, it’s an excellent idea to pair ectoin with your favourite skin care actives, like vitamin C, because of its ability to assist in combating irritation (11).
Can you mix ectoin and retinol?
Yes, you can absolutely mix ectoin with retinoid and retinol skin care products. Ectoin’s protective and hydrating benefits means it can serve as a buffer against undesired responses to retinol – including redness and flakiness – that some people experience.
How does ectoin compare to other skin care ingredients?
Ectoin’s multi-tasking nature and benefits naturally bring up comparisons to other skin care ingredients in terms of whether it’s better than what you might currently be using. The issue with this is that it’s not a clear apples-to-apples comparison.
Ectoin isn’t “better” than the current skin care ingredient juggernauts, it's complementary to them. At Paula’s Choice Skincare we’re advocates of using varied ingredients for a synergistic approach that ultimately leads to (or, even better, exceeds) the results you want for your skin.
Is ectoin the new niacinamide?
Although some publications and skin care influencers frame ectoin as “the new niacinamide,” that’s essentially not true and does both ingredients a disservice. There’s certainly some overlap in how they function, as both are antioxidants and skin-restoring ingredients and just as with niacinamide, ectoin defends skin against moisture loss and dehydration. On the other hand, there is not the depth or breadth of research yet showing that ectoin shares niacinamide’s benefits for enlarged pores, oily skin or areas of discolourations or uneven tone.
Think of niacinamide as specialising in uneven tone and oil balancing and ectoin as a hydration-enhancing, stress-busting, soothing skin barrier champion.
Is ectoin better than hyaluronic acid?
While ectoin’s benefits are more multifaceted than hyaluronic acid, it’s not necessarily better. If you have very dry or dehydrated skin, you’ll still want to consider using both to make sure your skin receives maximum moisture. Using both hyaluronic acid and ectoin will result in visibly plumped skin as well as less flakiness and tightness in remarkable time. Think of them as an excellent power couple for plumped, hydrated skin!
Is ectoin safe?
Research shows using ectoin topically is safe for skin – no studies thus far indicate any adverse effects from using it for a variety of skin concerns, including dehydration, signs of ageing and breakouts (12). As mentioned above, it’s even recommended to help stave off signs of irritation, whether from environmental factors or overuse of active skin care ingredients.
“None of its properties suggest that ectoin would harm the skin in any way,” says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Corey Hartman.
How to find the best ectoin skin care products
Paula’s Choice Skincare’s philosophy on what makes a good product comes into play when finding the best ectoin skin care product.
First, you’ll want to make sure that the ectoin product you’re using is packaged properly. Remember, it’s an antioxidant and antioxidants are delicate and can break down in the presence of light and air. This means packaging matters! Avoid transparent containers, jars or other types of packaging that will expose your ectoin product to light and air and essentially cause degradation.
Second, avoid fragrance (both natural and synthetic) and harsh, irritating ingredients that cause skin sensitisation. Though ectoin can help fight signs of irritation, there’s no need to make it do double work!
Third, consider using ectoin in leave-on formulas (like the previously mentioned moisturisers, serums or boosters) that will stay on skin longer, giving it more time to work its magic. With all that we now know about ectoin, we’re even more excited to see what continuing research will show in the future – it's definitely an ingredient to watch as scientists uncover more ways it helps skin of all ages look and feel healthier.
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References for this information:
- 3Biotech, October 2022, pages 1–14
- Processes, January 2023, pages 1-14
- Dermatology and Therapy, June 2022, pages 1603-1613
- Biochemistry and Biophysics Reports, December 2021, pages 1-7
- Asian Journal of Beauty and Cosmetology, August 2018, pages 437-447
- Applied Sciences, August 2022, pages 1-12
- Polish Journal of Allergology, June 2024, pages 173-179
- Scientific Reports, April 2019, pages 1-8
- International Journal of Cosmetic Science, October 2021, pages 495-509
- Our Dermatology Online, July 2022, pages 240-247
- Molecules, March 2020, pages 1-14
- Cosmetics, June 2023, pages 1-12
