Retinoids for Skin

In this article:
What are retinoids?
Benefits of retinoids
How retinoids work
Types of retinoids
Prescription vs. over-the-counter retinoids
How to use retinoids
What age can you start using them?
Can you use retinoids with other active ingredients?
Are retinoids safe?
Other considerations for retinoids

Retinoids claim the top spot on many skin care experts’ favourite ingredient lists. Not only does this group of vitamin A derivatives combat visible signs of skin ageing; it also helps blemish-prone skin, tackling clogs and reducing the appearance of post-breakout dark spots (1).

To best use retinoids and reap their benefits, it’s important to understand these skin care heavyweights, including how they differ from retinol, how to use them and which retinoid might be best for you. Read on for your guide to retinoids for skin.

What are retinoids?

Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A, an antioxidant and nutrient that’s necessary for the production of healthy skin (2, 3). In fact, vitamin A has over 70 years of research behind its ability to help improve skin’s health and appearance. What’s more, new research expanding on its benefits continues to roll out.

Think of “retinoid” as an umbrella term used to cover all the ingredients derived from this vitamin. Some of the ingredients that live under this umbrella include retinol (yes, really!), retinaldehyde (AKA retinal) and retinyl propionate.

Essentially, retinoids are cell-communicating ingredients that work as skin’s coach, cheering it on and encouraging it to turnover cells and act in a younger, healthier manner. This is hugely important because as we age, our cell-turnover process slows and can become faulty, leading to visible age-related changes.

However, no two retinoids are the same. Retinoids also vary in strength. You see, the skin needs to convert most retinoids into retinoic acid before it can work with said retinoid (4). Skin can be picky that way. So, for skin to ‘accept’ a retinoid as a work partner, it must go through an enzymatic conversion process and break down into retinoic acid. For example, retinyl palmitate requires three conversion steps to become retinoic acid, retinol requires two and retinaldehyde requires one. The fewer conversion steps a retinoid requires, generally, the stronger it is.

Retinoids are also known for their strong, natural bioactive yellow-to-orange colour. Don’t be worried about this! Vitamin A is simply a naturally colourful raw material.

Benefits of retinoids

Retinoids are often hailed for their anti-ageing abilities, but this group of ingredients has many skin benefits. Although these benefits vary based on structure and how skin handles them, most retinoids are known to:

• Reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles (5).
• Visibly improve skin firmness by telling skin to create youth-promoting substances that visibly support skin's architecture (5).
• Reduce the occurrence of bumps and clogs on skin, making them particularly suitable for blemish-prone skin (6). Retinoids also help to keep these clogs at bay. Some retinoids even help to balance oil production, which further helps reduce and prevent clogs.
• Tackle the look of large pores.
• Target uneven tone and the dark spots associated with sun damage, ageing and breakouts (1).
• Help protect skin from the cascade of damage that external aggressors can cause. Left unchecked, this damage can go on to cause wrinkles, dullness, crepiness and an uneven tone.

How retinoids work

Retinoids are cell-communicators that work with skin in a complex manner. After they convert into retinoic acid, they give skin instructions (more like commands) to complete certain tasks (4). Some of these tasks include prompting skin to turn over cells in a youthful manner and coaxing skin to create substances that help promote firmness.

Beyond coaching skin to act younger through a series of commands, retinoids also work as antioxidants, meaning they help protect skin from pro-ageing environmental aggressors, like UV rays and pollution.

Types of retinoids

Many types of retinoids make appearances in over-the-counter (OTC) skin care products and prescription creams, lotions and gels. As we touched on before, retinoids vary greatly based on their strength, structure, concentration and their conversion process.

So, let’s break down the most popular topical retinoids below.

Retinaldehyde

Retinaldehyde, AKA retinal, is one of the most popular and powerful retinoids. It requires one conversion step to impact skin, meaning it’s stronger and more fast-acting than retinol. Research has proven that its strength doesn’t make it less tolerable than retinol, partially because of advancements in formulary approaches, like encapsulation (5). Encapsulation is essentially wrapping active ingredients in another, more tolerable, ingredient that allows the core active to remain stable for longer and get to where it needs to be in skin.

Although retinaldehyde is a tried-and-true anti-ageing star that reduces the appearance of skin laxity, fine lines and wrinkles, it’s particularly useful for its ability to help prevent clogs, balance oil production and improve the look of breakout-prone skin (5, 6). It does this partially due to its ability to offset the underlying causes of breakouts.

Retinaldehyde is a great option for you if you’re unsatisfied with the results you’re experiencing with retinol. We also love it for adults struggling with signs of ageing and breakouts at the same time.

This potent retinoid is considered safe for skin, is available over the counter and is commonly used in products in concentrations between 0.05% and 0.1%.

Retinyl propionate

Retinyl propionate is a synthetic ester of vitamin A. It’s created through the combination of retinol and propionic acid, a fatty acid. Although it requires three conversions to become retinoic acid, its unique structure allows it to have a longer stretch of efficacy on skin, making it both gentle and impactful.

Retinyl propionate retains most of the benefits of retinol when applied to skin, including a reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles as well as dark spots and the ability to tackle signs of damage related to sun exposure (7).

This retinol ester* is a great choice for sensitive skin looking for an alternative to retinol or retinaldehyde with early or intermediate skin concerns and is usually used in formulas in concentrations between 0.1% and 0.4%.

*Retinol derivatives that tend to be more stable in formulas and on skin. The body converts vitamin A from food to its ester form for storage.

Retinyl palmitate

Retinyl palmitate is a milder retinoid (it requires three conversion steps to become retinoic acid) that works at a slower rate than retinol and retinaldehyde. It’s created through the combination of retinol and palmitic acid, a fatty acid.

It's mostly tapped for usage as an anti-ageing antioxidant in skin care products. It’s a good retinoid option if you have dry, sensitive skin or are experiencing early signs of damage or ageing.

Research has shown this ingredient to be safe for topical application on skin and it is commonly used in products at concentration levels between 0.1% and 0.5%. Fun fact: this is the form of vitamin A skin naturally stores to help protect it.

Oleyl adapalenate

Oleyl adapalenate (AKA Adapinoid®) is a synthetic third generation retinoid. It’s a precursor of adapalene, a unique retinoid that works with skin a bit differently than traditional retinoids do. Oleyl adapalenate is unique in that it doesn’t need to convert into retinoic acid for skin to be able to work with it. Instead, it converts into adapalene, which the skin can work with directly.

When applied topically, this retinoid helps promote even tone and texture due to its ability to prevent the formation of clogs and help balance oil production, which in turn minimises the appearance of pores (8). Like most retinoids, oleyl adapalenate also has key anti-ageing benefits, including improvements in skin tone, firmness and reducing the appearance of laxity. Oleyl adapalenate is a great retinoid for those with more stubborn skin concerns, oily skin types or those with clog-prone skin.

Concentrations between 0.1% and 0.5% are recommended for leave-on skin care products.

Fun fact: Because it’s not an ester of retinol, it doesn’t have a yellow-to-orange colour! Instead, it appears as a white-to-off-white colour.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate

Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (AKA Granactive Retinoid and HPR) is another unique retinoid. It differs from other vitamin A derivatives in that it’s not an ester of retinol, but of retinoic acid itself! That means it gets to cut the line when it comes to the conversion process and only requires one step. This retinoid is relatively new and more stable than older vitamin A derivatives.

HPR has both anti-ageing and clog-reducing benefits. It specialises in remedying the ageing damage associated with sun exposure, like mottled tone, dark spots, rough texture, and fine lines and wrinkles (9).

This ingredient is a good alternative for those who experience sensitisation when using the big dog itself, retinoic acid (AKA tretinoin). Because of its structure, it can positively impact skin at concentrations as low as 0.02%.

Adapalene

We briefly touched on adapalene above, but let’s dive a bit further into it now. Adapalene is a synthetic retinoid that doesn’t convert to retinoic acid because it doesn’t need to! It works directly with skin, giving out commands once applied topically to get it to act more youthful and stop producing clogs (10). For many, it’s considered a top retinoid pick when looking to combat blemishes, oily skin, enlarged pores and clogs.

Adapalene has a few claims to fame. Firstly, you can access it both as a 0.1% gel over the counter or in higher strengths (such as 0.3%) and different product formats through a prescription (11). Secondly, although adapalene is a potent retinoid that works with skin without conversion, it has been proven to be better tolerated than tretinoin (retinoic acid) (12).

Tretinoin

Now let’s get into tretinoin, the reigning monarch of retinoids. Tretinoin is the synthetic version of retinoic acid, meaning it requires no conversion to work with skin. As such, it’s the most potent retinoid. Tretinoin is prescribed under a myriad of brand names, most notably Retin-A™ and Altreno™. It’s also sometimes referred to as all-trans retinoic acid.

Because of its potency (remember, it requires no conversions!), it’s only available by prescription. It’s the gold standard when it comes to the anti-ageing and anti-blemish benefits it provides (13). Not only does it help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles as well as dark spots and hyperpigmentation, but it also helps to promote firmness, improve texture, brighten and, of course, helps treat blemishes. It’s the go-to prescription retinoid for skin with stubborn concerns, blemish-prone skin, skin with sun damage and those facing more-advanced signs of ageing.

Tretinoin is one of the most-researched retinoids and was approved for topical application by the FDA way back in 1971 (14)! However, because of its strength it can cause sensitivity. To combat this, make sure to use a gentle, fragrance-free skin care routine which includes a nourishing toner, soothing serum, hydrating moisturiser and SPF alongside tretinoin.

Prescription vs. over-the-counter retinoids

Retinoids are available as prescription and over-the-counter skin care products. The key difference between retinoids accessible over the counter and those only available through prescription is strength.

Generally, more potent retinoids are available as prescriptions, like tretinoin and higher strength adapalene products as well as tazarotene (brand name Tazorac®), whereas retinoids that are milder, like retinaldehyde and retinol, are available over the counter.

Prescription topical retinoids tend to work faster, simply because they don’t have to spend time converting into retinoic acid. However, this doesn’t mean over-the-counter retinoids aren’t effective!

Beyond prescription topical retinoids, there are also prescription oral retinoids, like isotretinoin (formerly Accutane®) which aids in cases of severe blemishes (15). Oral retinoids are more potent than topical retinoids and are only prescribed in advanced cases of skin conditions, such as cystic or nodular blemishes or cases of blemishes that haven’t responded well to anything else.

How to use retinoids

We recommend slotting retinoids into your nighttime skin care routine because unless you’re diligent about daily sunscreen use, they can increase skin’s sensitive to UV rays. Nighttime is also when people don’t mind spending a bit of extra time on an added step. Just to be clear, it’s totally fine to apply retinoids in the morning, as long as you’re following up with a broad-spectrum sunscreen.

First, set out on cleansing, toning and exfoliating with a leave-on exfoliant. Then follow with your other skin care products in order from thinnest to thickest texture, including your retinoid skin care product, wrapping up your routine with a barrier-focused moisturiser during the night and sunscreen during the day. For example, if your product is a light retinoid serum, you’ll apply it before heavier gels, creams and lotions. If it’s an advanced retinoid cream, apply it after your lighter treatments. Don’t forget to apply your retinoid to your neck too, as breakouts, uneven tone and fine lines and wrinkles don’t stop at your face.

When first incorporating retinoids into your skin care routine, begin by using them 2-3 times a week. After skin acclimates, increase usage to once or twice a day, based on skin’s tolerance.

Also, pay attention to packaging. Retinoids are antioxidants that are highly sensitive to light and air. Because of this, to remain stable and effective, they need to be in airtight and opaque containers. Avoid retinoids in glass jars like the plague!

What age can you start using them?

It’s recommended to start using retinoids for anti-ageing purposes in your twenties, as this is when skin’s natural cell turnover process and its ability to produce skin-firming substances begins to slow. Using retinoids before your twenties for anti-ageing benefits makes little sense, as before this time, skin’s still functioning in a healthy, youthful manner.

The exception: teens should consider retinoids to combat blemish-prone skin. It’s best to consult a dermatologist for a prescription or to discuss OTC retinoid options if you’re experiencing stubborn breakouts in your adolescence.

Can you use retinoids with other active ingredients?

Yes, you can use retinoids with other active ingredients. The idea that you can’t is based on misinformation and outdated research.

Using retinoids and chemical exfoliants, like BHA (beta hydroxy acid, AKA salicylic acid) and AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), whether in the same routine or on alternating nights, can enhance visible results. Many think combining these two can over-exfoliate skin, however it’s a myth that retinoids exfoliate skin; they simply encourage normal cell turnover.

Including vitamin C and retinoids within the same skin care routine isn’t something to avoid, but instead a recipe for protection against environmental damage. Both ingredients are antioxidants, working to fend off external aggressors, like pollution and UV rays, that can go on to incur pro-ageing damage on skin (16).

Now, let’s get to the bottom of using niacinamide and retinoids together. Niacinamide is a barrier-enhancing ingredient that helps to soothe skin (17). Using niacinamide in a routine with retinoids can help skin better tolerate retinoids, avoiding some of the sensitivity some people can incur when using them. Both retinoids and niacinamide also have anti-ageing properties, as well as the potential to balance oil production and reduce the appearance of pores. Using the two together lets them supercharge each other in a way that won't harm skin.

Are retinoids safe?

Retinoids are one of the most-researched groups of cosmetic ingredients with a long-standing record of safety and effectiveness (18). Retinoids remain a mainstay in skin care lovers’ and most dermatologists’ arsenals. Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Corey L. Hartman adds, “Tazarotene is arguably one of the best and most effective, particularly for people with melanated skin.”

Although retinoids are safe, it’s recommended to not use retinoids, particularly tretinoin, when pregnant or breastfeeding because excess retinoid exposure can be harmful during this period (19). Dr. Hartman further explains this guidance, “There’s no evidence to support this when referencing topical retinoids. This came from extrapolated studies of oral isotretinoin and the original tazarotene trials when it was approved for psoriasis and used on large body surface areas of skin with a compromised skin barrier.” However, general guidance is to avoid during pregnancy.

Most skin care lovers have few issues with incorporating a retinoid that suits their skin type and concerns into their routine. However, because retinoids are active ingredients that do some heavy lifting, they can incur side effects. Retinoid side effects include:

• Redness in light skin tones and dark or purple tones in darker skin tones where the retinoid has been applied
• Dryness or flaking
• Sensitivity, itchiness or a tight feeling
• A sunburn-like warmth, with or without redness

If you happen to experience any of the above, you have a few options. You can reduce the cadence of your retinoid product usage. Instead of using it once a day, perhaps try using it three times a week.

The issue could also be the concentration of your product. Experiment with using a more moderate or low strength retinoid and see how your skin responds. Remember, some retinoids are still impactful at low concentrations, so you don’t have to worry about not seeing results.

You could also seek out a different retinoid. If you’re using retinaldehyde, perhaps switch to retinol, which requires one more conversion step, or retinyl propionate, which requires two.

Some have found that using a “sandwich” method, in which one sandwiches a retinoid between two layers of a hydrating, soothing serum or moisturiser has helped remedy the sensitivity they experience when using retinoids.

Other considerations for retinoids

Retinoids work best when included in a skin care routine that prioritises sun-safe practices and is filled with antioxidants and skin replenishing ingredients, like ceramides and hyaluronic acid. Sun safe practices include using a broad-spectrum SPF and reapplying every two hours when you’re exposed to UV rays. Wearing wide-brimmed hats, sunglasses, long-sleeved shirts and long pants that have a UPF (ultraviolet protection factor) rating is also advised.

Remember: Skin care requires a cocktail approach for visible results and optimal skin health. Sun protection’s an important part of this cocktail approach.

Learn more about retinol and other skin care ingredients.

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References for this information:

1. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, January 2022, pages 69-81
2. European Handbook of Dermatological Treatments, October 2023, pages 1,741-1,761
3. Nutrients, July 2022, pages 1–12
4. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, August 2019, pages 392-397
5. British Journal of Dermatology, October 2023, Pages i17–i23
6. Dermatology and Therapy, June 2017, pages 293-304
7. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, September 2021, pages 33–40
8. Pharmaceuticals, August 2020, pages 1–22
9. Photochemistry and Photobiology, November 2023, ePublication
10. Journal of Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, January 2022, pages 71-78
11. U.S. Food and Drug Administration, Webpage, Accessed March 2024
12. Therapeutics and Clinical Risk Management, August 2007, pages 621-624
13. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, November 2011, pages 22-29
14. Journal of the German Society of Dermatology, December 2008, pages 1023-1031
15. Drug Design, Development and Therapy, August 2023, pages 2573-2591
16. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, March 2022, pages S27-S37
17. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, September 2022, page AB16
18. International Journal of Toxicology, 1987, pages 279-320
19. Canadian Family Physician, June 2011, pages 665-667