In this article:
Retinoid vs. retinol: what’s the difference?
Low-strength retinol and retinoid products
Medium-strength retinol and retinoid products
High-strength retinol and retinoid products
Pro-strength retinol and retinoid products
Which retinol or retinoid strength is best?
How and when to step up retinol and retinoid strength
Retinol and retinoid tips and other considerations
Topical retinoids, including retinol, are research-proven anti-ageing powerhouses that can benefit nearly everyone’s skin (1). But providing a youthful look isn’t their only accomplishment. They offer a myriad of benefits, from tackling uneven tone to texture, and are available in formulations that suit a wide range of skin types and concerns.
But their use comes with questions: What strength retinol should you use for wrinkles or other signs of ageing? When and how should you use retinol or retinoid products? Should you use a retinoid cream or serum? Which Paula’s Choice Skincare retinoid product will work best for my skin?
As always, we have research-based answers for these questions, and more.
Retinoid vs. retinol: what’s the difference?
Before we dive into the best strengths of retinol and retinoids for your skin type and concerns, let’s quickly cover the difference between retinol and retinoids.
Think of the term retinoid as a blanket term for all vitamin A derivatives. Because retinol is a vitamin A derivative, it’s considered a retinoid. Other popular retinoids outside of retinol include retinaldehyde, retinyl propionate and retinyl palmitate.
Retinoids must be converted into retinoic acid to work with skin. This is important to note because it’s why 0.1% retinol isn’t the same strength as 0.1% retinaldehyde. Let’s break it down: Retinol requires two conversions to turn into retinoic acid, whereas retinaldehyde (AKA retinal) only requires one step. Because retinaldehyde is one conversion step closer to retinoic acid, 0.1% retinaldehyde is stronger than 0.1% retinol.
Low-strength retinol and retinoid products
Retinol and retinoids are potent bioactive skin care ingredients. This means that you don’t need incredibly high concentrations of them to see results.
Published research has shown that concentrations as low as 0.1% retinol are effective for improving multiple signs of ageing and minimising the appearance of pore size, along with improving skin’s healthy appearance (2). Low strengths of retinol usually fall between 0.01%-0.1%, while the range for other retinoids varies due to their assorted potencies.
Low amounts of retinol and retinoids, when paired with other antioxidants, also help defend the skin against environmental damage when worn under a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day.
Low-strength retinol and retinoid products are best suited for:
- Retinol beginners or those newer to vitamin A derivatives.
- Those who have sensitive skin.
- People who are looking to promote healthy skin functions and improve early, minor signs of ageing.
If you fall into any of these categories, our RESIST Intensive Wrinkle-Repair Retinol Serum is a great place to start. It features stable, pure low-strength retinol alongside soothing plant extracts and antioxidants, all within a silky serum texture that helps soften early signs of fine lines, brighten and replenish.
Our other low-strength retinol and retinoid offerings include a moisturising skin-smoothing body treatment, a rich antioxidant serum and a ceramide-enriched firming moisturiser.
Medium-strength retinol and retinoid products
If you’re dealing with concerns like uneven skin tone, noticeable loss of firmness and fine lines and wrinkles, you may want to consider adding a medium-strength retinoid product to your routine (3).
Products with medium levels of retinol (0.2% to 0.4%) and retinoids visibly improve signs of ageing more quickly than those with lower concentrations. Research has also demonstrated they improve visible signs of environmental assault and the appearance of thinning skin (4).
Medium-strength retinol and retinoid products are a great option for:
- Intermediate retinol and retinoids users, or those who have successfully used low-strength vitamin A products and are ready to ramp up their visible results.
- Anti-ageing concerns and moderate issues with texture, bumps and uneven tone.
Paula’s Choice offers two stand-out medium-strength vitamin A products:
- The CLINICAL 0.3% Retinol + 2% Bakuchiol Treatment highlights a collagen-supporting blend of retinol, bakuchiol and peptides to target fine lines, deep wrinkles, enlarged pores and loss of firmness.
- Our second medium-strength retinoid option is the RESIST Triple Active Total Repair Serum. A potent blend of retinyl propionate, niacinamide and hexylresorcinol powers this light, hydrating serum which signals skin to renew and re-energise, resulting in a visible improvement to lines, discolouration and firmness.
High-strength retinol and retinoid products
If your skin care concerns are more stubborn, consider a high-strength retinol or retinoid treatment. Deeper fine lines and wrinkles, crepey or lax skin, stubborn tone issues and/or tenacious bumps and flaws can benefit from strong retinol and retinoid products (0.5% - 1.0% for retinol) that provide more dramatic results in a faster manner.
High-strength retinols and retinoids are best for:
- Those who have tolerated medium-strength retinol and retinoids well.
- People seeking more dramatic improvements to stubborn skin concerns, like deeper wrinkles and dark spots.
- Vitamin A users who want to achieve faster results.
Paula’s Choice Skincare’s CLINICAL 1% Retinol Treatment contains a high-strength level of potent controlled-release retinol that goes to work immediately to visibly refine pore size and diminish the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines and uneven skin tone.
We also offer a high-strength retinol booster with a fluid texture that can be mixed into your existing moisturiser.
Pro-strength retinol and retinoid products
Pro-strength retinol and retinoid products build on the power of over-the-counter vitamin A offerings with advanced ingredient and formulary technology. They allow users to achieve results adjacent to prescription-strength, tackling advanced signs of ageing and helping users target more specific concerns related to texture and blemishes.
Pro-strength retinol and retinoid products are suited for:
- Advanced retinol and retinoid users or those looking for some of the same prescription-like results.
- Experienced vitamin A users looking to target specific concerns.
- Those whose primary concerns are related to advanced ageing.
- Blemish-prone skin.
Our CLINICAL PRO Retinaldehyde Treatment uses next generation retinoid technology that taps into retinaldehyde to support cell renewal for visibly smoother, clearer, younger looking skin. This treatment tempers irritation with a slow-release formula that also utilises encapsulation for optimised efficacy and tolerability.
Which retinol or retinoid strength is best?
There’s not a one-size-fits-all answer, or a rule for how to tell what strength of retinol to use. Basically, it depends on your skin type, skin concerns and your skin’s tolerance for vitamin A. To determine your tolerance, experiment with different strengths and application methods, and see how your skin responds—beginning with a lower concentration.
The bottom line: the best retinol or retinoid strength is the one that works for your skin type and concerns. To reiterate:
- Beginners, and those with sensitive skin, will most likely respond best to low strength.
- If you’re noticing intermediate signs of ageing and environmental damage, a medium-strength retinol or retinoid might be right up your alley.
- High strength works for those with more stubborn concerns related to ageing, bumps, texture and tone.
How and when to step up retinol and retinoid strength
Using retinol and retinoids is a marathon, not a sprint. There’s no prize for advancing to pro-strength as quickly as you can. In fact, speed-running your way to the most potent concentrations of retinol and retinoids can bring about unwanted side effects and delay results.
It’s best to use the “low and slow” approach with retinol and retinoids. Start with a low-strength retinol and retinoid, using it two-to-three times per week. If skin responds positively, increase usage slowly, eventually using your product nightly. If applying during the day, always follow with a face broad-spectrum sunscreen.
There’s no need to step up strength levels or increase usage if you’re happy with the results you’re experiencing. However, if you’re looking for more visible results or your skin concerns have become more stubborn, go for it. Once you feel you’re ready to step up to the next strength level repeat the low and slow approach for best results.
Retinol and retinoid tips and other considerations
Topical vitamin A products are multi-tasking skin care valedictorians; however, they can be tricky to apply, tolerate and generate results from if you’re not in-the-know. Here are a few of our favourite retinol and retinoid tips and tricks for best results:
- Avoid vitamin A products that aren’t in opaque, airtight packaging. Exposure to air and light can reduce retinoids' effectiveness.
- Skip on retinol and retinoid products with fragrance. Volatile aromatic compounds can irritate skin.
- You can use vitamin A products with chemical exfoliants, vitamin C and niacinamide. Simply pay attention to how your skin responds when used with other more active ingredients. If your skin shows signs of irritation, separate or reduce the frequency of use until you find the right balance for your skin.
- If your skin is showing signs of sensitisation due to retinol or retinoid use, try the sandwich method. This method requires application of a light layer of moisturiser or oil first, then a retinoid product and lastly, another thin layer of moisturiser or facial oil.
- If you’re pregnant or breastfeeding, avoid topical and oral usage of retinoids.
- Skin doesn’t love retinol? Try a gentler plant-based alternative, bakuchiol.
Learn more about retinol and skin care ingredients.
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References for this information:
- Clinical Interventions in Aging, December 2006, pages 327–348
- Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, March 2015, pages 271-280
- Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, March 2015, pages 40-46
- International Journal of Cosmetic Science, December 2022, pages 625-635
