In this article:
Hypoallergenic
Non-comedogenic or won't clog pores
Cosmeceutical
Natural skin care
Specially formulated for mature skin
No matter where you shop for skin care or makeup products, you’ll find at least one product, probably more, with claims that are misleading or exaggerated to the point of absurdity. Lots of cosmetics companies make too-good-to-be-true claims just to get your attention.
So, you’re probably asking: What about truth-in-advertising regulations? How do these brands get away with it? Drawing on our decades of researching this fascinating, sometimes frustrating, industry, we bust five of the most bogus cosmetic claims so you can shop smarter below!
5 misleading cosmetic claims debunked
Hypoallergenic
"Hypoallergenic" is meant to imply that a product is unlikely or less likely to cause reactions and, therefore, is better for sensitive skin (1). It isn’t true … here’s why: There are no accepted testing methods, ingredient restrictions, regulations, guidelines, rules, or procedures of any kind, anywhere, for determining if a product qualifies as being hypoallergenic.
More proof: We’ve reviewed hundreds of products labeled "hypoallergenic" or "good for sensitive skin" that contain seriously problematic ingredients capable of causing a sensitised reaction.
Even the United States Food and Drug Administration (USFDA) says:
There are no Federal standards or definitions that govern the use of the term hypoallergenic. The term means whatever a particular company wants it to mean (2).
Instead of focusing on shopping for "hypoallergenic" products, make sure you avoid products that contain skin-sensitising ingredients, such as fragrance (whether natural or synthetic), denatured alcohol, sodium lauryl sulfate, fragrant plant oils like rose and lavender, and all forms of mint and citrus. These ingredients show up in lots of products, and all of them are problematic for skin, regardless of the claims for the product.
We know that sensitising ingredients are a major problem for all skin types—that’s why every Paula’s Choice product is formulated to be non-irritating. We love it when we see other cosmetics companies doing the same because it’s truly what's best for your skin.
Note: If you have extra-sensitive, reddened skin, our CALM line may be the best option to soothe and bring comforting relief.
Non-comedogenic or won’t clog pores
You really can’t trust any product that makes claims of being "non-comedogenic" (or the less common "non-acnegenic") because, just like hypoallergenic, there are no approved or regulatory standards for these terms anywhere in the world.
With no guidelines or standards in place, even the thickest, greasiest moisturiser can claim it "won’t clog pores". Generally, the thicker the product, the more likely it is to be pore-clogging.
Instead, if you have oily or blemish-prone skin, avoid products with a thick, creamy consistency. Look for products that have a liquid, gel, or extremely light serum texture, or a thin, water-based lotion consistency. Generally, products with thinner textures are less likely to clog pores or worsen blemishes.
Cosmeceutical
The word "cosmeceutical" (a combination of "cosmetic" and "pharmaceutical") was dreamed up to describe cosmetics products that are supposed to have some level (proven or not) of special benefit over and above regular cosmetics.
The truth? It’s just another marketing term with no regulation or standards behind it. That means that any brand (whether from a doctor’s office, salon, or medical spa) can label its products cosmeceutical, regardless of what they contain. There are no cosmeceutical-grade ingredients, not anywhere in the world.
What about different "grades" of ingredients? There definitely are different grades, but their use is not restricted to only the most expensive brands or to brands sold only by estheticians or dermatologists. All cosmetics lines have access to the very same ingredients, and they are used throughout the cosmetics industry. Falling for this line is a surefire way to waste your money!
Natural skin care
An increasing number of skin care lines tout their products as being made strictly of natural ingredients, implying that natural is best, and anything that isn’t 100% natural is harmful. In truth, while there is an abundance of natural skin care ingredients that are fantastic for skin, there are also many that can do real damage to skin and hinder its ability to look and feel younger, among them essential oils (which appear frequently in “natural” skin care lines).
Adding to the confusion is that some lines touting their natural status also include synthetic ingredients. While that isn’t a bad thing by any stretch, it is misleading to consumers. Another issue is that there is no national or global standard about exactly what natural even means, so it’s a guess in many cases and up to individual companies to define how they see it.
Specially formulated for mature skin
This claim is not used so much anymore, but it still shows up, and it couldn’t be more irksome, for many reasons. The main problem is that cosmetics companies always define "mature skin" as occurring at some arbitrary age, usually over the age of 50, where suddenly, you’re supposed to start using whatever rich, heavy cream they’re promoting.
In truth, people of all ages (including over 50 years old) can struggle with oily skin and blemishes, which is why a one-size-fits all “mature skin” formula won’t suit. (3). Age in and of itself is not a skin type. Sure, skin concerns, such as wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and loss of firmness show up more consistently as we age, but that’s true for people in their 30s and 40s, too.
There are no special formulary standards that make products labeled "for mature skin" any better or "more anti-ageing" than products formulated for other skin types or concerns. Most products sold for mature skin are just overly emollient moisturisers that may or may not contain the skin-replenishing and skin-restoring ingredients that skin showing signs of ageing needs. That’s why it’s a mistake to let this claim guide your purchasing decisions.
An important note: the process of menopause, along with certain medical procedures, causes estrogen loss which results in an issue called estrogen-deficient skin. Estrogen deficiency accelerates visible signs of ageing, such as loss of firmness, uneven tone, wrinkles, and crepey skin.
References for this information:
- Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, January 2004, pages 325-327
- https://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/Labeling/Claims/ucm2005203.htm
- Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, January 2008, pages 56-59
- International Journal of Molecular Sciences, October 2021, pages 1-26
- Advances in Wound Care, February 2013, pages 5-10
- PLOS One, December 2009, ePublication