In this article:
Don’t do any invasive treatments at your first esthetician appointment
Avoid peels, blemish treatments and strong laser treatments before big events
These treatments might be a “no” for skin of colour
Don’t use DIY skin care to help with dark spots
Skip retinoids pre- and post-Botox®
Don’t act on skin care trends so quickly
Skip these skin care steps if you’re a pre-teen or teen
Avoid creating popular skin care product mixtures
Hair removal hacks and devices to refrain from
Ever wonder which skin care hacks, tips and products estheticians simply will not follow? We have!
Along with select dermatologists who take the time to educate themselves on cosmetic ingredients and skin care formularies, estheticians are typically the most in-the-know about the latest treatments, skin tips and products. This group of licensed skin care professionals work day in and day out to help clients achieve their skin goals through tailored recommendations and treatments, like facials.
To provide you with a definitive, esthetician-backed list of skin care don’ts, we spoke with Tiara Willis, a licensed New York-based esthetician and content creator who specialises in skin of colour. She regularly educates her audiences across the web on all things ingredients, skin treatments and skin care products.
Ready to dive into an esthetician’s expert guide to skin care nos? Let’s get into it!
Don’t do any invasive treatments at your first esthetician appointment
“At your first appointment with an esthetician, you shouldn’t do any invasive procedures like a chemical peel, laser treatment or microneedling,” says Willis.
But why? Don’t you want to jump start your skin journey ASAP? Willis explains that at your first appointment, “Your esthetician is getting familiar with your skin and may not be sure yet of what your skin needs or allows.” Receiving an invasive treatment your skin type might not need at the jump can possibly disrupt your skin barrier and worsen the skin concerns you’re trying to tackle.
According to Willis, your first meeting with an esthetician should only consist of a “consultation, a basic facial and a skin care routine to start at home."
Avoid peels, blemish treatments and strong laser treatments before big events
Big events, like weddings, birthdays and graduations, often inspire us to pamper ourselves. Skin treatments sound like a great way to do that but hear us out before you book that deep chemical peel one week before your birthday bash.
“You shouldn’t receive invasive procedures like a deep chemical peel, blemish treatments or strong laser treatment” before big events, says Willis. “These treatments may involve downtime and cause skin to purge, leading to breakouts and bumpy texture. You can also have an adverse reaction.”
If you’re in a rush, book less invasive treatments that promote hydration. Willis recommends a hydro-dermabrasion treatment (like HydraFacial) or enzyme facial. Don’t have time for an in-office visit? Seek out soothing, hydrating products like a serum with hyaluronic acid and ceramides.
Set on a more intense treatment from your esthetician or dermatologist? Make sure you’re aware of recuperation times. For example, deep chemical peels often require 2-3 weeks of recuperation, so booking those at least two months before a celebration or important day is the better way to go (1). Providing buffer time before a big event or celebration is always a good idea!
These treatments might be a “no” for skin of colour
IPL (intense pulsed light) therapy is a common light-based treatment that’s mostly recommended for tackling uneven tone, dark spots and unwanted hair growth. The most commonly used IPL wavelengths work best with lighter skin tones, notably Fitzpatrick skin types I to IV (2,3). “Those with richly melanated skin should avoid common IPL treatments because they don’t contain a ND-Yag 1064 wavelength, which is the safest wavelength for darker skin types,” says Willis.
However, when correct IPL wavelengths are used and the skin care professional you’re working with is knowledgeable about skin of colour, IPL can be safe.
What about chemical peels and skin resurfacing procedures? They’re safe for skin of colour on a case-by-case basis. “Certain chemical peels and treatments are not recommended for dark skin types because of the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Skin resurfacing, like CO2 lasers, are also used with heavy precautions on deeper skin,” adds Willis.
Consult the skin care professional you’re working with to see if the treatment you desire is best suited for your skin.
Don’t use DIY skin care to help with dark spots
Let’s set the record straight: homemade or DIY skin care can do more harm than good for the skin. Overall, these concoctions aren’t (or won’t remain) stable, can have pHs harmful to skin and don’t contain preservative systems, meaning microorganisms can thrive in these pastes, liquids and gels. Willis adds, “I don’t recommend clients use DIY skin care because it's usually less effective and potentially dangerous in comparison to over-the-counter products.”
Don’t whip up “DIY skin care using lemons or turmeric” to help combat dark spots, Willis says. Lemons can cause sensitivity to UV rays that might result in sensitisation and the worsening of dark spots (4). Turmeric, unlike raw lemon, can be beneficial to skin as an antioxidant and soothing ingredient. However, when taken from your kitchen cupboard, you're getting it in pure form which can irritate skin.
Willis recommends proven, carefully stabilised ingredients, like hydroquinone, retinoids, exfoliating acids, kojic acid, niacinamide and alpha arbutin in non-homemade formulas to help tackle dark spots.
Skip retinoids pre- and post-Botox®
Retinoids, including retinol and tretinoin, are potent vitamin A derivatives that coach skin to act younger. Although retinoids are a great way to help maintain the youthful results of botulinum toxin therapy (aka Botox®), Willis recommends not using retinoid products “for 2 days before and after" any botulinum injections out of precaution due to their active nature to help with post-procedure care.
.Botulinum toxin treatments involve injections which temporarily puncture skin, so you want to treat skin with soothing ingredients before and after your treatment. After your two days are up, feel free to continue the topical use of your favourite retinoid products, if the skin care professional you’re working with is also on board.
Don’t act on skin care trends so quickly
Flashy skin care product claims, colourful packaging and loud marketing get the best of us. Whether you’re looking to purchase the latest, buzziest serum, get “glazed donut skin” or participate in the “clean girl aesthetic,” have a think before you commit.
These trends or new products might not suit your skin type and concerns, notes Willis. Consider your skin goals, will this new product help your skin? If it seems likely to help, make sure you already don’t have something just like it. Willis explains that overconsumption due to the never-ending trend cycle can be not only a waste of money, but an environmental issue.
Also, examine the store or website you’re looking to purchase the trending product from. Not everyone or every company who promotes a trend means well, resulting in the pushing of potentially counterfeit products. “Using products from unverified sources online, ” can be dicey, says Willis. “You don’t know if the products are fake, expired or even where they’re being manufactured.”
If you do decide you’re going to purchase a trending skin care product, make sure it’s from a reputable online or brick-and-mortar storefront.
Skip these skin care steps if you’re a pre-teen or teen
"Most pre-teens should only use a cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen,” relays Willis. You see, young skin doesn’t need powerful anti-ageing ingredients because it doesn’t require coaching to act younger. Assuming the youngster isn’t tanning, their skin still naturally exfoliates, turns cells over and produces collagen in a healthy manner. As one approaches one's mid-twenties, these processes begin to slow. It’s around this time that it’s recommended to begin using more high-power, anti-ageing actives.
However, if you experience breakouts during your teens, some of these ingredients, like salicylic acid (BHA), retinoids and benzoyl peroxide can be beneficial. Consult your dermatologist before proceeding with any active ingredients.
Avoid creating popular skin care product mixtures
Creating skin care “potions,” mixing skin care products and housing them in the same container, just scratches something in our brains. Although it may seem satisfying and fun, it practically renders your products benefit-less.
According to Willis, mixing products in the same container can “disturb the stability of each product, which can cause it to separate, become less effective and weaken the products’ preservative system.”
However, this doesn’t mean you have to stop mixing products all together. Take a careful approach by looking into which products can and cannot be combined. For example, some serums and skin care boosters can be mixed in your hand right before application. But they shouldn’t be combined in the same bottle or jar.
Layering skin care products and applying them to your face in order from thinnest to thickest texture is tried-and-true and will provide you with the best benefits.
The bottom line: avoid combining your products in the same container if you want effective, safe skin care products.
Hair removal hacks and devices to refrain from
At-home laser and LED devices have come a long way when it comes to hair removal, but they’re “not always effective in comparison to in-office treatments,” says Willis.
Why’s this? Willis explains, “Many at home LED devices are ineffective or are just providing heat, which can be a danger for those with melasma because it can make the pigmentation worse. Those with blue LED can also make hyperpigmentation worse for darker skin types (5).”
If you’re looking to skip on in-office hair-removal treatments or at-home devices, waxing might be the answer for you. “When waxing at home, technique is everything,” Willis relays. “Common mistakes are the waxing temperature being too hot, wax being applied in the wrong direction, or the wax laid down isn’t thick enough. Not all wax is made the same, either.”
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References for this information:
- American Academy of Dermatology Association, Webpage, Accessed March 2024
- Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, May 2014, page AB202
- National Library of Medicine; National Center for Biotechnology Information, Webpage, Accessed March 2024
- Journal of Essential Oil Bearing Plants, July 2017, pages 758-768
- Skin Research and Technology, July 2023, ePublication
