At-Home Chemical Peel: What You Need to Know

9 min read

Bryan Barron

In this article:
What is an at-home chemical peel?
The difference between professional and at-home chemical peels
Benefits of using a chemical peel at home
Are at-home chemical peels safe?
How do you use an at-home chemical peel?
When to not use an at-home chemical peel
Where does my daily exfoliant fit in?
What is the best at-home chemical peel?

Chemical peels used to exist solely in the confines of a dermatologist or esthetician’s office. However, with advances in skin care technology and formulation, a plethora of at-home chemical peels have become available, most claiming to even texture, smooth tone and visibly decrease the appearance of dark spots and wrinkles.

But do these at-home chemical peels work? And how do you complete them safely from the comfort of your own bathroom? Below, the experts at Paula’s Choice are walking through what at-home chemical peels are, how they work, if you should use one and how to safely incorporate at-home chemical peels into your skin care routine.

What is an at-home chemical peel?

An at-home chemical peel is a stronger, rinse-off version of a leave-on exfoliant, like those you use to remove built-up layers of dead skin to reveal a smooth, radiant glow.

At-home chemical peels are designed to be done at home and differ greatly from professionally done, in-office chemical peels which utilise even stronger formulas in a controlled environment (1).

The difference between professional and at-home chemical peels

The main differences between these two beneficial types of chemical peels are:

At-home peels:

Professional peels:

  • Dermatologists and other trained professionals (like estheticians) carry out these higher-strength chemical peels in-office.
  • Contain higher percentages of AHAs, BHAs and PHAs than at-home peels; for example, an at-home chemical peel might contain 25% AHA and 2% BHA while an in-office dermatologist-led peel might contain 70% AHA and 2% BHA.
  • Vary from superficial aka “lunchtime” peels to medium and deep peels. Superficial peels work on skin’s outermost layers, with medium and deep peels, each working on layers of skin further within.
  • Utilise a wider array of ingredients, like TCA (trichloroacetic acid) (4).
  • Can help treat more stubborn and serious skin care concerns, like dark patches often related with pregnancy, sunspots and certain types of blemishes (5).
  • Can be customised based on the client’s mix of concerns.
  • Require recovery time and post-procedure care and can also require pre-treatment routines (avoiding sun, discontinuing usage of retinoids and hydroquinone, etc.).

*Despite its efficacy, pyruvic acid isn’t used often in skin care products due to its strong, persistent vinegar-like scent.

Benefits of using a chemical peel at home

Whether used at home or applied by a pro, a chemical peel is good for skin that has advanced signs of sun damage, rough texture, stubborn clogged pores and dullness.

A face peel at home can also be a helpful way to help fade discolourations from sun exposure or post-blemish marks (1, 5). And of course, they’re also great to use a week before a special event so skin looks refreshed and renewed.

Are at-home chemical peels safe?

Using a low-to-moderate strength chemical peel specifically formulated for at-home use is something people of all skin types and tones can safely do. With enough know-how you can properly, and safely, reap the benefits of at-home chemical peels.

To avoid any unwanted side effects, like redness, dryness and peeling, those with extra-sensitive, redness-prone skin should take extra precautions by choosing a peel whose pH isn’t below 3.5 and whose formula contains a good mix of soothing ingredients to offset potential irritation. That’s a wise guideline for all skin types, but especially for more delicate, reactive skin; a facial acid peel at home should never hurt or irritate skin. You may feel some transient stinging or tingling, but that’s it.

This advice does not apply to the application of office-grade chemical peels at home. A professional should always apply these peels for best results and to minimise the risk of side effects.

A special note: If you have melanin-rich skin, be extra cautious considering in-office peels whose acid concentration is 50% or greater. Such peels, often described as medium or deep level peels, have a higher risk of causing permanent hyperpigmentation, whereas the same risk doesn’t apply to lower-strength (superficial) peels and salicylic acid-only peels (6, 7, 8).

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How do you use an at-home chemical peel?

How to do an at-home chemical face peel correctly, for maximum benefits and minimal cons, requires some know-how.

The at-home chemical peel chosen must have a gentle yet effective rinse-off formula. Once the best formula is chosen, you should determine the frequency of use that’s right for you, which usually comes with trial-and-error. Begin with once-weekly usage (this works well for most people) and note how your skin responds. While applying, follow all instructions and directions on the at-home chemical peel’s packaging!

A rinse-off peel might temporarily change how your skin responds to your usual leave-on treatments, like those that contain retinol, azelaic acid, vitamin C and niacinamide. Treatments, serums and boosters can still be used on days you apply a peel — just be sure to monitor how your skin does and adjust your routine if needed. Some common signs of overdoing it are redness in light skin tones or dark spots, grayness and purple patches in darker skin, burning and itching. Some may find their skin also feels a size too tight.

Here’s how to incorporate a rinse-off peel into your skin care routine:

  1. 1. Apply an even layer of the peel with fingers or a brush to a cleansed face; avoid the immediate eye area and lips
  2. 2. Leave on for the recommended amount of time, typically 5-15 minutes
  3. 3. Rinse off the peel using lukewarm tap water, then gently pat skin dry
  4. 4. If using the peel at night, follow with your usual serum, treatment, moisturiser, etc
  5. 5. If using the peel in the morning, you must finish your routine with a broad-spectrum sunscreen

An important reminder: if your skin starts burning, stinging or gets a painful tingling sensation after you apply the peel, remove it immediately! All are signs of irritation, and even if they begin long before you’re supposed to take off the peel, rinse it off to prevent any skin damage that could be occurring.

All leave-on exfoliants, especially those with AHAs, can make skin more sun-sensitive (meaning you might be more prone to sunburn or hyperpigmentation) (9). Frequent and liberal application of a broad-spectrum sunscreen is fundamental to healthy, youthful and even skin, especially when using peels.

When to not use an at-home chemical peel

As mentioned above, those with extra-sensitive skin can try a gentle peel, but no matter your skin type, avoid peels when you have a sunburn, when facial skin is wounded (such as post-laser) or if you know your skin is sensitive to any of the acids the peel contains. If you have any of these issues, wait until you feel your skin is back to normal or has calmed down before attempting a peel. Additionally, if you have a known salicylate allergy, check with your physician before using any products that contain salicylic acid (BHA). A patch test is always a good idea if you’re not sure!

If you’re pregnant or nursing and want to use a peel, discuss the options with your health care provider. They may suggest using a less intensive exfoliant during these times. Also, if you use a prescription retinoid ask your dermatologist if you should discontinue use a week before and up to a week after using a peel (this generally applies to the stronger in-office-type peels).

Where does my daily exfoliant fit in?

So, you’ve decided to try a home chemical peel for sun damage (or some other concern) but are wondering where your daily AHA or BHA exfoliants or spot treatments fit in. We advise not applying your usual leave-on exfoliant or spot treatments on days you use a chemical peel. Depending on how your skin responds, you may need to wait a day or two more before resuming use of your traditional leave-on exfoliant.

What is the best at-home chemical peel?

There isn’t a single best at-home chemical face peel, but the best at-home facial peel products have the following traits:

  • Their total acid concentration doesn’t exceed 30% (that’s the recommended threshold for safety of at-home peels, whereas stronger peels should be used in a professional setting).
  • They’re formulated at a pH between 3.5-4.0 to ensure a good balance of efficacy and gentleness (10).
  • They DO NOT contain proven irritants like denatured alcohol, essential oils, citrus, mint, witch hazel, vinegar, phenol or menthol (many at-home peels have this mint derivative).
  • They DO contain proven skin soothers such as those from licorice, chamomile, green tea or calming ingredients like allantoin, oat or beta-glucan or butterfly pea flower.
  • Are in protective skin care packaging that keep beneficial supporting ingredients stable and safe from light and air degradation.
  • Are designed for brief contact with skin and recommended for occasional use (11).

The checklist above is exactly the one Paula’s Choice followed for our weekly exfoliating peel. This rinse-off formula’s multi-acid blend quickly and gently resurfaces and improves the look of skin within minutes. Its inclusion of soothing ingredients minimises factors in skin that can trigger irritation, leading to a high likelihood of truly impressive results.

Learn more about exfoliants.

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References for this information:

  1. 1. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, August 2018, pages 21-28
  2. 1. Dermatologic Surgery, January 2004, pages 32-36
  3. 3. The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, July 2010, pages 32-43
  4. 4. Dermatology Research and Practice, August 2021, pages 1-6
  5. 5. Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, July 2018, pages 365-372
  6. 6. Dermatologic Surgery, March 2016, pages 384-391
  7. 7. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, August 2019, pages 323-334
  8. 8. Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, August 2015, pages 455-461
  9. 9. Experimental Dermatology, July 2012, Supplement, pages 31-35
  10. 10. Clinical, Cosmetic, and Investigational Dermatology, November 2010, pages 135-142
  11. 11. Molecules April 2018, pages 1–12